The log

The history of the log has its variants. However, the first logs were not edible. It was a wooden log decorated with foliage and ribbons, sometimes engraved, onto which a little wine or oil was poured as an offering. Depending on the region, it would then burn in the hearth all Christmas Eve or until Epiphany - the ashes being scattered around the house as a sign of protection.

It wasn't until the mid-19th century that the log became a pastry. In the 1950s, it was discovered as a rolled cake topped with buttercream. Over time, craftsmen developed the look, taste and texture, transforming logs into veritable works of art. A model in this field is the "Tout-Paris" log, born of the collaboration between Pierre Hermé and designer Octave Marsal. "At a glance,we're in Paris. We've succeeded in reproducing Octave's stroke with precision to highlight Parisian architecture with finesse and realism, including the Pont-Neuf, on which the log is placed."

A chocolate log decorated with a fleur de sel caramel cream, caramelized puffed rice grainss, a gingerbread cookie and a Viennese spice cookie, a creation that would have made Baron Haussmann green with envy. As the icing on the cake, the pastry is presented in a custom-made, backlit case reproducing the artist's drawings in negative.

A Parisian tour of 5 other fascinating logs.

• Maxence Barbot, Shangri-La, Paris

Maxence Barbot's star log celebrates the star anise flower. The eight petals are reproduced in chocolate cabosse style, and serve as a support for each slice. It features a milky Peruvian chocolate mousse with a subtle hint of aniseed, layered on a cookie and chocolate crunch. As a surprise, the heart of the log features clementine marmalade and a confit of iyokan, a small Japanese citrus fruit whose flavors oscillate between acidity and sweet bitterness, reminiscent of grapefruit. A log that's truer than life!

10, avenue d'Iéna, 75006 Paris

www.shan grilaparis.com

• Quentin Lechat, Le Royal Monceau, Paris

A refined creation, with gentle curves. "I've kept up my habit of pencilling in my school notebooks. These days, I don't draw my pastries, except at Christmas and Easter. So I started with the first line, which I instinctively put down on paper. From this curve came the log and its box."

He then imagines stacking five logs, giving each one a different flavor. To serve, simply take it apart like a Lego, placing each curve on a plate: vanilla and rum, chocolate and tonka, tatin and buckwheat, praline and citrus, intense chocolate and cranberries. A contemporary creation to be savored without delay!

37, avenue Hoche, 75008 Paris

www.lero yalmonceau.com

• Pierre Marcolini, in Paris and Brussels

The first thing that catches the eye is the shape: an uncoated holly leaf. "I was inspired by the incredible abundance that the forest offers us to imagine the visuals and flavors."We choose our favorite from grand cru chocolate, pineapple coconut, chestnut or coffee. This log plays on tastes and textures with a coffee mousse, a light coffee buttercream and a crunchy toasted buckwheat nougatine with acacia berries. The chocolatier's idea: leave out all forms of coating, including for the chocolates, to allow for new sensations, as if we were slipping into the workshop in effervescence. We love it!

235, rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

https:// eu.marcolini.com

• Adrien Bozzolo, in Paris

For his log, Adrien Bozzolo goes so far as to create his mold on a 3D printer. As for the flavors, he works closely with Givaudan's nose, Nisrine Bouazzaoui Grillié. "Discovering the world of the perfumer opened up a whole new field of thought for me in terms of taste. We speak the same language, even if we don't break down aromas in the same way."The result is a combination of fruity Dominican Republic chocolate and Japanese citrus inserts: iyokan and kogan ginger, accompanied by Okinawa black sugar praline and toasted rice pearls. A dazzling tasting experience.

251, rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

www.mand arinoriental.com

• Maxime Frédéric, Cheval Blanc, Paris

Fascinating in its realism and size, Maxime Frédéric's creation is like a hand-carved wooden toy. The horse is made of chocolate, while the rocker is a tablet filled with crunchy gianduja. Placed at its feet, the 100% hazelnut log takes the form of a gift-wrapped package of a thousand textures - dacquoise biscuit, creamy hazelnuts, chocolate and gianduja. dacquoise cookie, cream, crunchy shortbread, praline, light mousse - enhanced by vanilla caramel. Sold!

8, quai du Louvre, 75001 Paris

www.chevalblanc.com