L'éclair, its history and our selection of the best addresses

Anne Debbasch | 10/18/23, 2:40 PM

With its crunchy-melting choux pastry and fragrant crème pâtissière, the éclair is a staple of French patisserie. While it can be eaten without a spoon in a flash, it can also be enjoyed on a plate in a more sophisticated version.

A little history. The choux pastry stick dates back to Catherine de Médicis. Called Duchesse at the time, the pastry was sprinkled after baking with dried fruit or glazed with caramel. It wasn't until the 19ᵉ century that Antonin Carême introduced crème pâtissière and fondant. And it wasn't until 1860 that the Duchesse became Éclair. This little cake has kept pace with developments in pastry-making, notably with the arrival of pastry shells, which now enable it to be filled without slicing. In today's interpretations, the cream has become lighter, the fondant has given way to cracker and icing, and the flavors have become more intense.

Gault&Millau invites you to share a few remarkable eclairs to be tasted at least once in a lifetime.

L'éclair au café, Kevin Lacote, Paris

His éclair au café has the whole of Paris in a frenzy! "I chose robusta coffee for its strength and bitterness, which I modulate by using blond chocolate."The result is an éclair generously topped with an incredibly smooth, light cream that can be enjoyed with a good hot chocolate at this pastry shop in Paris's 17th arrondissement. Irresistible!

Where? 78 avenue de Villiers, 75017 Paris
www.klpatisserie.com

652fb8d62b2ee0dc250c7022

LiseSébastien, ©GéraldineMartens

Giant vanilla éclair to share, Bernachon, Lyon

At Bernachon, indulgence is not an option. With a family-size Madagascar vanilla éclair, it's hard to resist temptation. Handcrafted in the Lyon workshops, Philippe Bernachon interprets the éclair as he pleases, with chocolate, vanilla with or without raspberry in season, praline or lemon. In Lyon, the XL version is now a Sunday lunchtime must.

Where? 42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt, 69006 Lyon or 127 rue de Sèvres, 75006 Paris
www.bernachon.com

652fb8d62b2ee0dc250c7025

©Bernachon

L'éclair Pécan, Pierre Hubert, Dijon

Pierre Hubert has a weakness for vanilla. For his éclair, he had no choice but to invite the fragrance of the precious bean into the cream. "I like to add pecans for their gourmet notes and crunchy texture."On top, to retain all the charm of traditional éclairs, the cakes are covered in fondant, adding a sweet, gourmet touch.

Where? 31 rue des Godrans, 21000 Dijon
www.pier re-hubert.fr

652fb8d62b2ee0dc250c7028

©PHubert

L'éclair chocolat, Thibault Leroy, La Grande Épicerie, Paris

At La Grande Épicerie de Paris, pastry chef Thibault Leroy offers an anthological chocolate éclair all year round. "I chose 75% organic pure Madagascar chocolate from Pralus to give character to the creaminess."To amplify the contrasting textures, he adds a cracker to the top and swaps the fondant for a chocolate glaze that is not very sweet, so as not to alter the flavors of the crémeux. Depending on the season, the range is enriched with a calisson éclair in summer and a pistachio éclair in winter.

Where? 38 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
www.lagr andeepicerie.com

652fb8d62b2ee0dc250c702b

©DR

Julien Alvarez's éclair caramel, Ladurée, Paris

Refined and elegant, Julien Alvarez's éclair transports us to another galaxy, that of ultra-indulgence. In a fluffy choux pastry covered with a thin cracker, the pastry chef creates a creamy caramel cream infused with Tonka bean, punctuated with a few splashes of fleur de sel caramel. "Tonka bean and caramel, the taste of which I push, take us back to childhood."The éclair is encircled by a thin layer of crunchy caramel chocolate, giving this exceptional éclair a singular aura. To be savored without delay.

Where to buy? In all the company's boutiques
www.laduree.fr

652fb8d62b2ee0dc250c702e

©PierreMonetta

These news might interest you

Craftsmen & Know-How

World Butchery Cup 2025: total victory for France

Organized for the first time in France, the Coupe du Monde de la Boucherie was held in Paris on March 30 and 31, 2025. France triumphed in all categories.

Read

Craftsmen & Know-How

Orleans vinegar

Created on the banks of the Loire, Orléans vinegar has long been known throughout France and on the tables of kings. In the 18th century, during its golden age, the city was home to several hundred artisan vinegar makers. Today, Maison Martin-Pouret is the only company to have maintained this tradition since 1797.

Read

Craftsmen & Know-How

Seaweed bliss

Jean-Marie and Valérie Pédron gather, preserve and process seaweed from the Guérande peninsula, delivering it to France's top chefs. The couple also aim to democratize the use of this coastal treasure, which is rarely used in cooking.

Read

Craftsmen & Know-How

Jade Genin transforms Easter eggs into works of art

For Easter, Jade Genin transforms chocolate into an exceptional sculpture. Blooma, her latest creation, is as fascinating to contemplate as it is to taste.

Read

Craftsmen & Know-How

Ebony treasure from The Peninsula Paris For Easter, Anne Coruble has created a trompe-l'oeil that's truer than life, with its curves of black garlic and subtle caramelized taste. Beneath a shell of 40% Madagascar milk chocolate, eight cloves enclose a candied black garlic ganache and hazelnut praline. A precious creation that opens without being broken, so hesitant is it to open. Price: 95 euros Pre-order from March 29 and on sale from April 12. The turtle candy box from Manufacture Ducasse Set a course for the Mediterranean with this turtle-shaped bonbonnière made entirely of chocolate, from base to lid. inside are "turtle nuggets" combining vanilla marshmallow and hazelnut praline, as well as coconut praline bells. Price: 67 euros À la mère de famille hens À la mère de famille carries on the tradition with its chocolate hens, available in several sizes and named after the owners and their families who have marked the history of the house (Hélène, Julia, Adélaïde, Jane and Claude). Two recipes: a dark chocolate with woody, earthy notes, and a milk chocolate with milk and caramel accents. inside, an assortment of butterflied praline eggs, praline fritures and dry fritures. Price: 19 to 122 euros depending on format available from March 17, 2025 The Cheval Blanc Paris Easter bell Maxime Frédéric imagines a bell in motion, in homage to Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. Its dark chocolate base conceals a tablet filled with vanilla caramel and crispy hazelnut praline. The milk chocolate belfries enclose a praline tablet, while the yoke houses chocolate-coated caramelized hazelnuts. The dark chocolate bell is transformed into a mendiant, studded with dried and candied fruit. Price: 135 euros Edwart Chocolatier Three mischievous animals are part of Edwart's Easter collection: Yara, the lively, inquisitive bird, Eloa, the dreamy frog, and Taïno, the mischievous, playful monkey. All made from Grands Crus cocoa, for a playful blend of indulgence and character. Credit: Edwart Spring takes flight at Waldorf Astoria Versailles - Trianon Palace Eddie Benghanem has created a poetic tribute to spring: a little bird perched on a tree trunk with delicate sugar flowers. inside, an alliance of dark chocolate, chocolate almond cake, dark ganache and crunchy praline. Price: 45 euros Capon Head for Chaponie, where jungle animals come to life in chocolate. Léonard the leopard in milk chocolate, Suzy the zebra in white chocolate, Zoé the bonobo in milk chocolate, Bob the bear in dark chocolate. All deliciously garnished with fried food. Price: 19 euros each Cédric Grolet's trompe-l'œil chocolates Almond, hazelnut, peanut and pecan: five dried fruits sublimated in trompe-l'œil. Beneath a crunchy chocolate shell, a praline made from the fruit in question, with a hint of fleur de sel. Available in S and M sizes. Size S: 30 euros Size M: 50 euros from March 26, pre-order on our website Claire Heitzler's Bibis Chef Claire Heitzler has created three chocolate bears, tenderly nicknamed Les Bibis. Milk, dark or white, each contains an assortment of three-chocolate and praline chips. Cyril Lignac Farm animals take center stage in this collection by Cyril Lignac: hens, pigs and sheep in crunchy chocolate, topped with praline eggs and mini chocolate bears. Available in dark, milk or dulcey versions. Available from March 27 Maison Boissier lace cats This year, Maison Boissier pays tribute to felines with a box of two cats in dark and milk chocolate, finely sculpted and filled with sweet treats. Price: 125 euros Cagnes Sheep, bunny and hen take shape in dark or milk chocolate. Under their shells, a heart of chocolate chips and crunchy marbles. starting at 20 euros Arnaud Larher MOF Arnaud Larher unveils a collection of four whimsical creatures, all topped with fritures. Kim the parrot in white chocolate and Ruby, René the elephant in caramel chocolate, Émilie the gorilla in intense dark chocolate, and Élio the lion in white chocolate and caramel. Prices: from 35 to 64 euros from March 20

Read

Craftsmen & Know-How

Exceptional eggs from chefs and artisans for Easter 2025

Chefs and artisans reinvent the Easter egg with creations as surprising as they are refined. Unexpected shapes and daring flavors, discover our selection.

Read