Easter cake

A Christian festival following the end of Lent, Easter is a more pagan celebration of the return of abundance and the renewal of spring. In the 19th century, a multitude of brioches in typical shapes and decorations, rich in eggs and butter, were made and set aside during the Lenten period. From brioches of all kinds to nest-shaped cakes, these pastries have a rich history. As a symbol of fertility, the nest had to be carefully prepared to welcome the eggs brought by the bells, the rabbit or the hare, depending on the region. Often forgotten - especially in the big cities - these preparations can be found in the regions, where each territory has its own speciality. In Alsace, for example, the traditional cake takes the shape of a lamb (or small sheep) - the Oschterlammele (or Lammela). In Corsica, the Campanile or Caccavellu is a golden brioche covered in hard-boiled eggs, a symbol of life, resurrection and hope. And in Brittany, nougatine is used in an unexpected "Nid" cake.

• Mon Lapin, Jean-Paul Hévin, Paris

For the M.O.F. pâtissier, this year's Easter star is hazelnut praliné, with a pastry specially dedicated to it. To emphasize the flavors of the dried fruit, Jean-Paul Hévin has combined it with a 58% cocoa Grand Cru chocolate from Venezuela, chosen for its sweet notes. As for the decor, it invites the rabbit and its carrot in a mischievous wink. Isn't it this animal who, in much of Europe, distributes chocolate eggs to children?

23 bis, avenue de la Motte-Picquet, 75007 Paris

www.jean paulhevin.com

• Lamala, Christine Ferber, Niedermorschwihr

Traditionally made in terracotta molds, Christine Ferber's Easter lamb or sheep celebrates tradition. Similar to a Savoy cookie, the recipe is rich in eggs. "It's a cookie that requires time and precision, as the dough is placed in traditional molds. This requires great care, as these molds are made in two parts that have to be assembled and sealed so that the dough doesn't come out during baking."Made only for Easter week, in limited quantities, Niedermorschwihr lamb is a must-try at least once in your life. We'll even give you the recipe!

18, rue des Trois Épis, 68237 Niedermorschwihr

www.chri tineferber.com

• Le Nid merveilleux de Pâques, Sébastien Gaudard, Paris

True to tradition, Sébastien Gaudard takes on the exercise in style that Easter celebrations demand, offering not one but two cakes each year, Cloche and Nid.This year, the nest will be "marvellous", made with Madagascar vanilla meringue, chocolate whipped cream and praline, covered with intense chocolate shavings and adorned with a hollow egg and a few crunchy flowers : a recipe I inherited from the Mouille family, who created the marvellous in Hazebrouck."As for the Cloche and its barley-sugar clocheton, it will appeal to fans, with its raspberries accompanied by vanilla cream, soft sponge cake and caramelized almonds. Tradition is good!

3, rue des Pyramides, 75001 Paris

www.seba stiengaudard.com

• Easter eggs from Maison Gavet, Pornic

Bertrand Gavet, Pornic's second-generation pastry chef, creates an Easter cake that combines molding and pastry-making. "My father already made this cake some fifty years ago.We make half-eggs from homemade nougatine, then fill them with croque-en-bouche-style choux pastries glazed with baked sugar and filled with vanilla or chocolate custard."For those with a sweet tooth, a second, Easter nest-style version is also available, with a different shape: the choux are used as a support and then covered with cooked sugar filaments to mimic a straw. The choice is yours!

64, Quai Leray, 44131 Pornic

www.pati sserie-gavet.fr

• Le Caccavellu, Le Moulin de Lecci, Corsica

Since 2006, Christophe Secondi has been making Caccavellu, Corsica's traditional Easter brioche. "It's a simple brioche to share with the family. I flavor it with brandy and aniseed. Before baking, to respect customs, I place a raw egg under two crescents of dough, then put it in the oven. This is how it's eaten, plain or with the accompanying egg."A wonderful way to celebrate the renewal of spring.

Village, 20137 Lecci

• Easter mutton recipe by Christine Ferber

For 3 sheep

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: approx. 30-40 minutes

Ingredients: 3 medium-sized sheep molds

• 250 g sifted wheat flour
• 250 g caster sugar
• 160 g yolks, i.e. the yolks of 8 medium eggs
• 240 g whites, i.e. the whites of 8 medium-sized eggs

For the molds

• 60 g butter
• 100 g flour

For decoration

• 15 g powdered sugar

Cream the butter. Using a pastry brush, butter and lightly flour the sheep molds.

Preheat oven to 180°C, gas mark 6.

In the bowl of your food processor, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until you obtain a pale yellow, fluffy cream.

Pour into a bowl.

Whisk the egg whites until stiff.

Rain the flour into the yolk-sugar mixture with a third of the egg whites, mixing gently with a wooden spoon.

Add the remaining egg whites and mix gently.

Fill the molds 3/4 full with the cookie dough and bake for around 30 minutes.

Turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool.

Sprinkle with powdered sugar.