Death of Bertrand Grébaut, Chef and Founder of the Restaurant Septime
Bertrand Grébaut, chef and co-founder of the Parisian restaurant Septime and the 2009 Gault&Millau Young Talent, passed away at the age of 44, leaving a major mark on French gastronomy.
Bertrand Grébaut was one of the pioneers—following the bistronomy movement—of a culinary trend aimed at making French gastronomy less rigid and more relaxed, by relying on carefully sourced ingredients showcased in creative, precise, and constantly evolving dishes.
“Grilled green asparagus, wild herb condiment, wild garlic leaf pickles, black pork bacon ”; “roasted endive, rye bread sauce, pickled mustard seeds ”; “platter of raw vegetables, fresh cheese, sorrel, and tarragon”... represent just a tiny fraction of the creations offered by Bertrand Grébaut at the restaurant Septime, which he opened in Paris in 2011 with his friend and business partner, Théo Pourriat. These dishes give center stage to plant-based ingredients, which Bertrand championed long before anyone else. He discovered this love for vegetables, fruit, herbs, and foraging while working under Alain Passard at L’Arpège, where he began as an intern before accepting a position as chef de partie. Two years later, he followed Laurent Lapaire, the former maître d’ at L’Arpège, who opened Agapé in the 17th arrondissement. Lapaire entrusted him with the kitchen. It was at this restaurant that Gault & Millau took notice of him and awarded him, in 2009, the “Young Talent France” trophy, praising, for example, “the Corrèze veal from Desnoyer, smoked over beechwood, served as a carpaccio flavored with vanilla and pineapple sage flowers.”
Septime: Indulgent, Unpretentious Gastronomy
In 2011, together with Théo Pourriat, his longtime friend, they opened Septime in eastern Paris—a nod to the 1966 film *Le Grand Restaurant* starring Louis de Funès: “ a kind of irreverent homage (...) a certain departure from the codes of French classicism.” Septime is indeed defined by this departure: a bistro-style setting where contemporary dishes uniquely reach the heights of culinary excellence. Through his vision, Bertrand Grébaut shook up French gastronomy and demonstrated that it was possible to offer gourmet cuisine in a completely relaxed setting while stepping back to let the producers, farmers, fishermen, and winemakers—whom he loved “au naturel”—take center stage.
French gastronomy has lost an influential yet discreet chef and restaurateur—rigorous yet relaxed, and always attentive to those around him, whether in the restaurant, the vineyards, or the fields.