This is where the only ham made in Paris is made.

Émilie Lesur | 9/20/24, 10:27 AM

Prince de Paris ham is part of the rich tradition of French charcuterie, particularly from the Paris region. Today, Maison Doumbéa is the last Parisian salting house to prepare this authentic ham. Our presentation.

While Paris ham has deep roots in the Middle Ages, the modern version of this cooked ham as we know it emerged in the 19th century, driven by the innovations of Parisian charcutiers. The waves of urbanization and industrialization of the time gradually displaced its production from the capital. Yet, hidden away in a courtyard at 166 rue de Charonne, a ham factory continues to perpetuate its know-how, handcrafting Prince de Paris ham.

Anne Loussouarn and her father bought Maison Doumbéa two years ago, to continue producing excellence. In the Loussouarn family - originally from Brittany, where the grandfather already had a business - charcuterie is a passion. The term " Prince de Paris " is used to designate a superior-quality ham, differentiated from simple Paris ham by more refined production methods and higher-quality ingredients. With us, the only machine is the oven," explains the manager. The ham is steamed for 9 hours at 68°C throughout. "Its taste, so appreciated by purists, is enhanced by a Guérande salt brine, spices and a vegetable decoction. " All the products used are French, with the exception of the Kampot pepper. And here, a pork leg is equal to a ham. "This is not the case with many industrial, churned products, which are assembled from different pork legs.

But how is Prince de Paris ham actually made? "We take the hind legs with the bone, brand them with the name of the company, and debone them with a cast bone, i.e. without tearing the meat. Next, brine is carefully injected into the femoral artery by hand, using a small needle. The ham is then placed in a soaking brine for 24 hours, before being slipped into a sock to give it its familiar shape. "After a week in the oven and cooling chamber, the ham is ready to be distributed and enjoyed.

Prince de Paris ham can be found in the windows of the best charcuterie shops in Paris, but it's not the only one. Chefs also appreciate its taste and quality. Emblematically, Yannick Alléno, at the Pavillon Ledoyen, has put the Doumbéa house on the map, while Alain Ducasse also uses it regularly on his plates. For his part, François Perret makes it the star of his ham and cured ham sandwich sold at the Comptoir du Ritz. La Grande Épicerie and Maison Plisson also offer it to their customers. References worthy of a prince...

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A ham under occupation

Paris ham played an important role during times of war. During the First World War, food supplies were a major challenge. Parisians faced food shortages and severe restrictions. Because of its relatively quick preparation and shelf life, Paris ham became a valuable source of protein for the capital's inhabitants. It was often distributed to soldiers on leave, providing gustatory comfort and a reminder of home and normalcy in troubled times.

During the German Occupation in World War II, food resources were even scarcer, and charcuterie production - including that of Paris ham - was severely restricted. Despite the restrictions, Parisian charcutiers showed great ingenuity in continuing to produce ham, sometimes using improvised methods and substitute ingredients.

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