Manon Fleury's good addresses
Manon Fleury, chef at the Datil restaurant in Paris, reveals the best places to buy bread, pastries and even artisan soap.
Beaujolais nouveau, the Gault&Millau choice
For over 70 years, Beaujolais Nouveau has appeared on the third Thursday in November. Their mantra is the idea of convivial, fruity, gourmet wines made from the Gamay grape variety. New wines are mainly vinified by carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration, which speeds up alcoholic fermentation. This November 17th marks the release of Beaujolais Nouveau 2022 from over 700 producers in the region. To mark the occasion, we present our 6 favorite tasting wines.
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Gault&Millau's favorite: Domaine JP Rivière - "Beaujolais Nouveau" 2022
Domaine JP Rivière covers 18 hectares in the Beaujolais-Pierres-Dorées, Chiroubles and Moulin-à-Vent appellations. It also includes 15 hectares of woods, fields and meadows. The estate is farmed conventionally and is certified Terra Vitis.
Tasting notes: JP Rivière's 2022 Beaujolais Nouveau is produced on clay-limestone soils on vines averaging 30 years old. On the nose, the wine expresses aromas of fresh red fruit (blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry) with a touch of violet. On the palate, we find the same aromas, with length and texture. A Beaujolais Nouveau we highly recommend.
Score: 17/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais
Production: 2,720 bottles
Price ex-cellar incl. VAT: €7.30
https:// domainejpriviere.com
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2nd : Vignerons des Pierres Dorées - "La Rose Pourpre Nouveau" 2022
Founded in 1961, Vignerons des Pierres Dorées is a winegrowing cooperative located in south-western Beaujolais. Today, it covers 470 hectares. The vines are HVE (high environmental value) certified.
Tasting notes: The 2022 vintage of "Rose Pourpre" is produced from vines over 40 years old on clay-limestone soils. On the nose, aromas are clean and expressive. Black fruit aromas dominated by blackberry and hints of English candy. On the palate, the wine is greedy and silky. The same dark fruit aromas are combined with a lovely length. A Beaujolais Nouveau that we'll be delighted to welcome back to our table on November 17th!
Score: 16,5/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais
Production: 30,000 bottles
Cellar price: €8
https:// www.vignerons-pierres-dorees.fr
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3rd : Château de l'Éclair - "Beaujolais Nouveau" 2022
Château de l'Éclair covers 20 hectares of vines in several Beaujolais communes, including Chénas. It is certified HVE (high environmental value) and Terra Vitis.
Tasting notes: Château de l'Éclair Beaujolais Nouveau is produced on flinty clay terroirs. The wine is vinified by short maceration, without sulfites and with a minimum of inputs. On the nose, we find typical Gamay aromas of raspberry, strawberry and English candy. On the palate, the fruit is bright and well-balanced. A palate that combines roundness and pleasure. A Beaujolais Nouveau just the way we like it!
Score: 16/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais
Production: 8,800 bottles
Price ex-cellar (incl. VAT): €9.50
https:// www.chateaudeleclair.com/fr/
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4th : Agamy - "Cuvée Tradition Louis Tête" 2022
Agamy is a collective of 350 winegrowers covering 1100 hectares of vines. The vines are grown using conventional methods and are HVE (high environmental value) certified.
Tasting notes: "Cuvée Tradition Louis Tête" is produced on granitic and sandy soils from vines averaging 50 years old. On the nose, aromas are characterized by red and black berries (raspberry, strawberry, violet, myrtle). On the palate, the wine is juicy with medium length. A well-balanced wine that will be appreciated by lovers of Beaujolais.
Score: 16/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais-Villages
Production: 2,300 bottles
Cellar price: €8
www.agam y.fr
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5th : Domaine des Marrans - "Beaujolais Nouveau" 2022
Domaine des Marrans covers 19 hectares in Fleurie. It produces wines from the Fleurie, Morgon and Chiroubles appellations. The estate is certified organic.
Tasting notes: Domaine des Marrans Beaujolais Nouveau is produced on clay-loam soils. On the nose, we find aromas of red fruits (strawberry, raspberry), but also hints of peony and peppery notes. The palate is supple and full of freshness, with a peppery finish. A Beaujolais Nouveau that doesn't surprise, but is very enjoyable.
Score: 15/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais
Production: 6,000 bottles
Recommended retail price: €10
www.doma inedesmarrans.com
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6th : Domaine Longère - "Beaujolais Nouveau" 2022
Domaine Longère is a 5-hectare family estate. The vines are grown using sustainable agriculture methods.
Tasting notes : Domaine Longère's Beaujolais Nouveau is produced on granite terroirs with vines over 50 years old. The nose is dominated by aromas of red berries, without exuberance. On the palate, we find the same aromas. The whole is greedy, even if you need to wait a few months for the wine to settle. Don't be afraid to open it in six months or even a few years. Yes, Beaujolais Nouveau can be kept!
Score: 14/20
Appellation: AOP Beaujolais-Villages
Production: 3,000 bottles
Cellar price: €8.75
www.doma ine-longere.com
What's the score?
The 18 cuvées of Beaujolais Nouveau were tasted and judged by a committee of six tasters, who rated the wines on the following criteria: appearance, complexity on the nose (intensity, quality, etc.), richness of aromas on the palate (persistence of aromas, length on the palate, etc.) and overall harmony.), richness of aromas on the palate (persistence of aromas, length on the palate, etc.) and overall harmony.
The tasters :
Thanks to Caroline Marteau (wine merchant at Le Petit Pache, Paris 11th), Guillaume Benquet (journalist and wine taster), Marc Esquerré (head of guides and surveys at Gault&Millau), Florent Martin (sommelier at l'Oiseau Blanc - Hôtel Peninsula Paris, Paris 16th), Jérôme Peleyras (Gault&Millau journalist) and Guillaume Rebière (wine journalist).
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