6 restaurants to discover freshwater fish

Often overshadowed by sea fish, freshwater fish suffer from an unfair reputation: too bland, too earthy, or simply less noble than their marine cousins. Yet, when properly prepared, these fish reveal subtle, delicate flavors capable of seducing the most demanding palates. From fine-fleshed pike-perch to melt-in-your-mouth catfish and tasty perch, these species are brimming with gastronomic potential. To convince you, we've selected a few restaurants where these fish are sublimated by passionate chefs. Get ready to rediscover these treasures of rivers and lakes in a whole new light!

Le Clos des sens in Annecy-le-Vieux

In a charming mansion in old Annecy, overlooking the town and offering a breathtaking view of the lake, Le Clos des Sens (4 toques) brilliantly perpetuates the culinary heritage initiated by Laurent Petit. At the helm is Franck Derouet, who sublimates with talent a unique concept: a cuisine entirely dedicated to plants and freshwater fish. There are no sea fish here, but rather an ode to the lakeside terroir, where each dish reveals the unsuspected richness of the region's waters. Arctic char, matured féra and homemade bottarga... Le Clos des Sens is the ideal place to familiarize yourself with these little-known species.

• Where? 13 rue Jean Mermoz, 74940 Annecy
• See Gault&Millau's review of Le Clos des Sens

Le Manoir de la Régate, Nantes

in Nantes, Le Manoir de la Régate (3 toques) has established itself as an exceptional restaurant, where Mathieu Pérou's cuisine boldly and precisely celebrates the Loire region. Here, freshwater fish are the real stars, sublimated by cutting-edge techniques and refined combinations that reveal their full richness. Drawing his inspiration from the waters of the Erdre, Loire and Lac de Grand-Lieu, the chef transforms sometimes little-known species into veritable gastronomic treasures. His pickled and candied catfish, accompanied by a sparkling beurre blanc with yuzu koshu, surprises with its melt-in-the-mouth texture and aromatic depth. The ikejime bream, worked with leek in the spirit of brandade, offers a subtle balance between softness and deliciousness. Each plate tells a story of passion and terroir, featuring products from committed local fishermen. all this is enhanced by impeccable service orchestrated by Anne-Charlotte Pérou, the chef's sister, who infuses this family-run establishment with a natural warmth and elegance.

• Where? 155 route de Gachet, 44300 Nantes
• See Gault&Millau's review of Le Manoir de la Régate

Christophe Hay - Fleur de Loire Chambord, Blois

On the banks of the Loire, in a setting bathed in light and serenity, Christophe Hay passionately celebrates the riches of the river. at Fleur de Loire (4 toques), his exceptional establishment, the chef honors a cuisine deeply rooted in its terroir, where freshwater fish take pride of place.

Here, every dish tells the story of the living Loire, sublimating species too often forgotten. Black bass from the Hennequart ponds, catfish, gently worked with a variation of local corn, or his signature dish: carp à la Chambord, a modern, refined reinterpretation of a historic dish, where powerful flavor is balanced with remarkable elegance.

• Where? 26 quai Villebois Mareuil, 41000 Blois
• See Gault&Millau's review of Christophe Hay - Fleur de Loire

Le K - Domaine de la Klauss, Montenach

In the sumptuous setting of Domaine de la Klauss, Le K (2 toques) embodies the perfect blend of refinement and terroir. At the helm, Benoît Potdevin sublimates exceptional products with precision and creativity, in particular freshwater fish, which find a place of choice on the gastronomic table. Arctic char, gently cooked to preserve its delicate texture, is accompanied by elderberry-scented celery and a light hollandaise sauce with burnt lemons. A dish of remarkable finesse, where each element reveals the subtlety of this emblematic lake and river fish. In keeping with this philosophy, each of the chef's creations features balanced flavors and bold combinations, elegantly highlighting the often overlooked potential of freshwater fish.

• Where? 2 impasse du Klaussberg, 57480 Montenach
• See Gault&Millau's review of Le K - Domaine de la Klaus

Atmosphères, Le Bourget-du-Lac

On the shores of Lac du Bourget, with a breathtaking view of Mont Revard, Atmosphères (3 toques) lives up to its name: here, everything is designed for a unique sensory experience, between refined cuisine and sublimated terroir. Chef Alain Perrillat-Mercerot celebrates local produce with a creative and precise approach, in which freshwater fish take pride of place. Arctic char, the jewel of the Alpine lakes, is worked with finesse, as is lavaret from Lac du Bourget, a fish rarely found on tables, which the chef enjoys working with pumpkin and pumpkin seeds.

• Where? 618 route des Tournelles, 73370 Le Bourget-du-Lac
• See the Gault&Millau review of Atmosphères

La Table de Yoann Conte, Veyrier-du-Lac

In his emblematic Maison Bleue, overlooking Lake Annecy, Yoann Conte, named Chef of the Year 2024, pushes the boundaries of gastronomy by brilliantly sublimating the terroir of the lake. The spiritual son of Marc Veyrat, his cuisine is exceptional, raw and clear, where freshwater fish reveal all their nobility. Among his creations, the "féra mimétique, basta" stands out as a model of purity and precision: a lake-bred féra, cooked to a pearly perfection, sublimated by a shallot butter and clarified butter sauce infused with bay leaves. Nothing superfluous, everything essential, and yet the emotion is immense. Yoann Conte, supported by a passionate team and elegant service, offers an extraordinary sensory experience, where freshwater fish become gastronomic jewels, proving that they have their place among the finest dishes.from the smoked sheepshead to the juniper-flavored decapod, each dish reflects an absolute mastery of the product and a deep connection with the surrounding nature.

• Where? 13 vieille route des Pensières, 74290 Veyrier-du-Lac
• See Gault&Millau's review of La Table de Yoann Conte