1 day in the heart of Brittany

You can't start this journey without getting yourself in condition. Right from the start, start Tri Martolod by Alan Stivell, turn up the sound, and Brittany begins to infuse. But it's not Armor, coastal Brittany, that awaits you, but Argoat, the land of deep forests where so many legends were born. So you won't be going to Camaret-sur-Mer today to admire the sea. You'll even be turning your back on it. Instead, head for the Monts d'Arrée, towards inland Brittany, its mysteries, its moors, its roads as winding as a mountain stream and its deserted villages; in short, towards this often forgotten heart of Brittany. Head for Carhaix, where you'll stop for a cool Coreff at the brasserie just opposite the station, before strolling through a small town with a heart. The capital of Poher, between the Black Mountains and the Monts d'Arrée, has a long history, as evidenced by a section of Roman aqueduct. Take the pedestrian Rue Brizeux, formerly Rue du Pavé, renamed in honor of the Breton poet, and admire the timber-framed houses. Then it's time to head off into the forest of the Armorique Regional Nature Park, to Huelgoat, the heart of legends. If you're not afraid of the Ankou (the specter who terrifies all inhabitants, especially at dusk when his funeral procession can be heard creaking), you can head for the trembling rock, on which a few korrigans will no doubt be dancing when you arrive. Around the village, the Moulin du Chaos (Chaos Mill) leads to the Grotte du Diable (Devil's Cave), at the bottom of which flows the Rivière d'Argent (Silver River)... Relax by the 15-hectare artificial lake of Huelgoat, before discovering the most beautiful parish enclosures in Saint-Thégonnec, Commana or Guimiliau. It's also an opportunity to get some height on roads that offer magnificent views of the Monts d'Arrée. From the Col du Trévézel (nearby Roc'h Trevezel rises to an altitude of 385 m) or the Col de Trédudon (361 m), you can admire a 360° Breton landscape, with views stretching for more than 30 km. The parish enclosures are remarkable curiosities. They bear witness to the faith of the villagers, notably through their sculpted calvaries. The calvaries of Guimiliau and Saint-Thégonnec were the subject of real competition between the two nearby communes; the large calvary of Guimiliau, built at the end of the 16th century, features almost 200 figures. The one in Saint-Thégonnec is a little less crowded, but just as impressive. Those in Commana, Pleyber-Christ and Lampaul-Guimiliau are on the way. Further south, via Saint-Rivoal, you'll reach Pleyben again, with its monumental calvary depicting 28 episodes in the life of Jesus. Tomorrow, I promise, you'll get to see the sea!