Auberge des Glazicks

29550 PLOMODIERN

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

7 PHOTOS

Chef Olivier Bellin

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Seafood | Signature cuisine

Services Accomodation | Children's Menu | Disabled access

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

80€ à 250€

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20

Prestige Restaurant Rooted in the North Finistère region that he embodies with passion and strength, and from which he draws his inspiration and energy, Olivier Bellin appeared at his best. The long family home facing the street is touchingly simple. However, the contemporary wood-clad extension at the rear takes it to a whole new level. The vast dining room, which is not overly ornamental, is very comfortable, with plenty of space for every table. The view over the small garden and the bay of Douarnenez in the distance is an appreciable asset in any season. Year after year, the chef tirelessly and enthusiastically adjusts his recipes in an obsessive quest for perfection, paying vibrant homage to this piece of land from which he never strays for very long. He adds, he subtracts, he refines... until he achieves the most perfect balance. An uncompromising buyer, he also has an acute sense of cooking, which he puts to good use in a culinary universe that is uniquely his own: "tripier marin", a singular version of land-sea harmony. If the sequence of cold and hot first courses is a great way to discover what the chef is capable of, the arrival on the table of a royal langoustine, fabulous in its quality and cooking, is a real coup! The crustacean rests on a bed of pig's trotter, with discreet but present flavors. The whole is supported by a cold carrot-celery cream for contrast. As a condiment, buckwheat-infused gwell (coarse milk) recalls the house's other passion: buckwheat. The three-course lobster dish is just as strong in taste. Of course, the quality and cooking are exceptional. A true classic that borders on perfection. The crustacean is hidden under a translucent veil of pig's head, which melts delicately under the heat. The black pudding, very light in taste and consistency, acts as a condiment, and the iodized effect is enhanced by the caviar-like lobster roe. And it's hard not to fall in ecstasy at the infinitely sweet and delicious "homardine" sauce. Act 2 takes the form of a lovely pig's head ravioli sprinkled with black pudding powder, and Act 3 takes on the lighter garb of a historic Pays de Léon dish, kig ha farz, buckwheat semolina (judiciously complemented with raisins), Molène sausage, ribot milk (tangy accents). An excellent enhancement of an initially rustic dish. Fulgurance next? Or how to magically sublimate a potato! Of course, it comes from the island of Batz. With its iodized taste, it's swaddled in seaweed. Underneath, an oyster from Cadoret. On top, a skin of milk and a dollop of osciètre caviar! Right on target! Mention should also be made of the superb turbot in its simplest form, caressed with a perfect beurre blanc and cockles. A few subtle notes of Guémené andouille sausage and crunchy (and so good!) green beans from a neighboring market gardener for the earthy side of the dish... If the dessert is a classic, it's changed every year. Fresh and light, it plays on contrasting textures, flavors and temperatures, combining chocolate tube, vegetable foam, raspberry salad and yoghurt-basil sorbet... Another feature of this fine establishment is the friendly service, both present and discreet, and the serious wine list, commented on with bonhomie and competence by the faithful sommelier.