Auberge des Glazicks

29550 PLOMODIERN

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

7 PHOTOS

Chef Olivier Bellin

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Seafood | specialty

Services Accomodation | Children's menu | For people with disabilities

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

80€ à 250€

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20

Prestige Restaurant Bellin, it's very, very strong. On the moors of the Pays Bleu (Glazick), the force 7 or 8 wind is powerful, invigorated by a fine rainy mist. Near the village church on the Crozon peninsula, Olivier Bellin's inn is one of the great houses of Brittany, one of the great houses of France. Was it a childhood dream to stay in the country, to grow the family home, the region, the terroir? No doubt, but the talent of such a chef cannot be reduced to a quasi-nostalgic desire. Like some of the greats, Olivier Bellin's sense of true taste comes before his sense of just taste. He imposes and imposes. The iodine of an oyster, the sea spray, the tide - he's bathed in them, he knows how to translate them, and those who know how to taste are moved with gratitude. The five very Breton opening bites, including "pomme de mer" (puffed apple with Cadoret oyster juice), lisette, andouille de Guéméné, set a uniquely powerful marine scene, while the traditional oatmeal porridge, lightened with beaten butter, covers sea urchin tongues. Langoustine is a prestigious ingredient that's been over-used just about everywhere in France, but Bellin is legitimate, choosing it from a quasi-private fishery (just two boats) in Guilvinec, half an hour from here, and turning it into a huge dish, carrot, gwell, broth, as he repeats a little further on with Kérity lobster, pig's veil, black pudding and lobster roe, a creamy family secret passed down from Maman Bellin to her son... Far from the palaces, far even from the codes of prestige that so seduce the big names in gastronomic tourism, Olivier Bellin designs unique models, a white fish soup, or rather a cream, with pig's trotter ravioli, lamb from the Monts d'Arrée with crunchy peas and green asparagus with a goosefoot coulis. This is another reason why the Auberge des Glazicks is a precious and indispensable address, where every member of the family, in the broadest sense of the word, is pulling in the same direction, including the pastry chef, with a refreshing lemon pre-dessert and a remarkable buckwheat apple olive oil milk ice cream, and the service staff, perfectly orchestrated by Marie, last year's Accueil trophy winner, who continues the chef's work in a very masterful human and natural way. A wine list in keeping with the standing of the place, with fine references everywhere, high prices - a few bottles around €50 - and the expected batch of great labels to meet demand.

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