Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau

Rating: 17
Author: Gault&Millau

17000 LA ROCHELLE

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

6 PHOTOS

Chef: Christopher Coutanceau
Cooking: Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Pets allowed | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style: Elegant | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

275 to 340

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Failing to be original, it's naturally tempting to use the marine metaphor in this emblematic house that slightly overlooks the beach of La Concurrence. The dining room opens out onto the sea, and by day, as night gently approaches, the panorama is sumptuous. Welcomed with warmth and distinction in a comfortable room, where the furniture, decorative elements and colors - such as the original corrugated ceiling, which takes on its full splendor in the evening - are reminiscent of the surroundings. The journey into the world of Christopher Coutanceau, champion of sustainable fishing, begins. The inshore fishing trip, or even the one on foot, promises to be very promising, with a short à la carte menu and 8 or 10-course menus (here, we talk about "catches"). For example, this variation on fine oysters from Maison Gillardeau, served as tartare with shallots preserved in red wine, creamy shallots and vinaigrette. Or poached then grilled and served with mussels, razor clams, cockles, clams and barnacles. A scum of shellfish and oyster juice is delicately added. Perfectly cooked, the magnificent brill, confit in seaweed-infused sparkling butter, is wrapped in a seaweed papillote. A seasonal accompaniment, the porcini mushroom, roasted raw or in a creamy sauce... A sauce made from fish heads and bones and flavored with roasted garlic and candied porcini mushrooms adds the expected gourmet touch. Also on the menu that day, a signature dish that nonetheless evolves regularly. Christopher Coutanceau works with cuttlefish rougail style. It's a wonderful idea that brings a touch of heat to the table. Shredded, but also just snacked and caramelized, it is notably carried by a "meaty" sauce with cuttlefish liver and Colonnata bacon. A dish of powerful character, softened by a breath of freshness (basil and verbena). Let's not forget to mention the very fine exercise in style with sardines. Now it's time for dessert. A lively composition with many contrasting flavors and an interesting interplay of textures. The Solliès fig appears roasted, in sorbet, in compote. It goes superbly well with buckwheat. At the end of this sea tour, we must salute the excellence of Nicolas Brossard, who was crowned "Restaurant Manager 2025". He leads a smiling, committed team. Leafing through the cellar book alone is a delight. Numerous references to regional wines such as T. Michon's Fiefs Vendéens, Prieuré La Chaume's IGP "Bel Canto", F. Brochet's Vin du Pays de la Vienne... Wide price range.