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40140 MAGESCQ
15/20
 Remarkable Restaurant
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© Clément Garby
© Elodie Le Neveu
© Clément Garby
8 PHOTOS
Chef
Jean Coussau
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Cooking lessons | Pets allowed | Private Parking
Budget (€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
132 to 175

Gault&Millau's review 2026

On this former stretch of main road, between pines and memories, the Auberge des Coussau has been displaying a French art de vivre bordering on devotion since 1952. You enter as if into a temple of gastronomic memory, where everything seems in its place, dictated by taste and time. The Coussaus cultivate a strong penchant for contemporary art, notably through the works of Xavier Carrère scattered throughout the house. To the rear, the pine forest stretches out and a garden opens up, a discreet haven punctuated by an experimental vineyard: the Coussau family cultivate to the end their local roots, their loyalty to the terroir. In the dining room, Poul Henningsen's Artichoke pendant lights diffuse a soft glow, as if to better envelop the ballet of service that verges on choreography. Daniel Giust, who trained as a sommelier and now runs the restaurant, orchestrates this twenty-eight-year-old process with discreet elegance. Jacques Coussau, the chef's brother, passes between the tables as an affable guest, without ever losing the quiet poise that comes from being used to the place. There's something rare here: a fidelity to ritual, a sense of ceremony that reminds us that the great French house is also a stage set. As for the plate, it speaks a clear language, that of noble products and ancient know-how. Raw langoustine, caviar and elderflower peas form a minimalist yet studied starter, where the floral notes of elderflower add a light, unexpected touch to the sweetness of the sea. The lobster civet with fresh cherries and jerez-glazed juice evokes a classicism: here, there's no technical brilliance, only nobility of execution. The millefeuille of foie gras and strawberries, which has become almost academic, seduces with its elegant construction and masterful balance of textures. The guinea fowl from Chalosse, truffled, accompanied by a mishmash of wild mushrooms and topped with two sauces, recalls the splendor of the end-of-year festivities. The dessert, on the other hand, stands out: elderflower-infused strawberries, panna cotta on shortbread, Saint-Germain liqueur sorbet, all enhanced by a well-measured touch of vinegar. Modern? Certainly. Convincing? You be the judge. The duality between the restraint of savory dishes and the boldness of sweet ones is a nod to a new generation. As for the cellar, it impresses with its controlled eclecticism: historic Bordeaux, sharp Burgundies, sharp Rhône wines, racy Loires, and a few confidential gems served by the glass. In short, if you're tired of fermented carrots and smoked milk, if you want to resist the Nordic aesthetic in vogue, this house offers an ideal refuge. It doesn't seek to shine in the rankings, it lasts. And in the discretion of this longevity, we perhaps find an even rarer form of excellence.

Map

24 Avenue de Maremne, 40140 Magescq, France © OpenMapTiles © OpenStreetMap
24 Avenue de Maremne 40140 Magescq
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Opening hours

OPENING HOURS

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People
  • Jean Coussau
    Jean Coussau Chef
    Jean Coussau Jean Coussau Chef
  • Daniel Giust
    Daniel Giust Sommelier
    Daniel Giust Daniel Giust Sommelier