How many of these comforting tables do you know where sitting down is already a promise and a guarantee? At Jean-Louis Nomicos, there's no room for improvisation: seasonal produce, nobility of arrival, a real menu to choose what you like. Porcini mushrooms have the good taste of autumn, with pan-fried foie gras and concentrated jus; crab is honored with leek and lemon caviar from the chef's Corsican garden; lobster in a creamy chestnut honey sauce spawns in Provence with purple artichoke barigoule. Each composition is well-balanced, with the right seasoning and clean cooking, culminating in a beautiful, light dessert of pear and salted butter caramel. Classic cellar, with recognized labels in a wide variety and a dozen wines by the glass.