Jean-Louis NOMICOS

Chef : 2 restaurants Jean-Louis Nomicos is the chef at Nomicos restaurant, as well as the consultant chef at Lasserre, two gastronomic establishments in Paris. Discover his portrait.

Presentation

"I'm a discreet person," confesses Jean-Louis Nomicos. And we'd have to add for him:"and full of talent". A companion of Alain Ducasse since the end of his apprenticeship ("I owe him everything, he's the one who brought me to Juana when I was still a kid"), he has climbed the ranks in the group with the same discretion. After Juan-les Pins, it was Monaco, at the Grill, the Louis XV, and even the Vistaero, before Alain Ducasse, who was working there as a consultant, offered him the Grande Cascade .

"I was 28, and it was my first chef position.I arrived at the end of 1995 and stayed for almost seven years. It was at the Grande Cascade that he invented the dish that connoisseurs adore, without always knowing who invented it: the famous macaroni stuffed with foie gras and truffles, which has been taken up by numerous chefs in Paris and elsewhere, without always mentioning its authorship, which doesn't bother the chef too much, simply happy to see its success. He adds with characteristic modesty:"Besides, we never create anything, we only adapt and draw inspiration from it. I based this dish on a recipe by Lucien Tendret, which was itself a gourmet bourgeois dish with poultry jus. "

This is still the essence of Jean-Louis Nomicos' cuisine today: a great deal of technique that can't be seen, yet can be measured, and always a concern for gourmandise, well-being and pleasure. It's this sense that he also instilled during his time at Lasserre, where Alain Ducasse called him between 2001 and 2008, and then - finally - at home, when he took over "La Table de Joël Robuchon", one of the Cuisinier du Siècle's restaurants on avenue Bugeaud. On the advice of friends in the media ("at the time, I was seduced by the idea"), he renamed it"Les Tablettes", in a tribute to a more intimate and modest vision. It would take him 15 years to simply give his name to the place where he regales his many fans in Paris's most endearing and addictive bourgeois salon .

Since 2019, he has also once again become the consulting chef at Lasserre, a mythical place that deserves a great chef - it's done - and a festive atmosphere befitting this room with such great memories, when the roof opens under the starry night over Paris in summer and diners push"Ah!"and"Oh!and "Oh! There's not much missing - the three toques have returned this year - to rediscover the soul of yesteryear in today's modernity, something this unique chef knows how to do so well, delivering a magnificent pigeon André Malraux pigeon, as well as zucchini flowers stuffed with herbs, chanterelles and fresh almonds, or blue lobster with chestnut honey, peppers and candied tomatoes. Avenue Bugeaud, at his place, or at Lasserre's, two tasty opportunities to get to know Jean-Louis Nomicos! M. E.