Valère Diochet, who was Grand de Demain twenty years ago in Strasbourg, another era, has been blossoming for some years now in the warm Languedoc sunshine and, today, in this superb wine estate and hotel on the outskirts of Narbonne. Experienced and a connoisseur of local produce, the former chef of Château des Carrasses cajoles the lucky few who take their seats in this pretty room with its wide-open view over the lagoon: Mediterranean bluefin tuna, fresh coconut beans, tomato confit and shiso oil, Mediterranean red mullet, apricot pressé, lemon basil and red mullet juice, before a lovely dessert of sweet onion cooked in a Gruissan salt crust, namelaka, coffee and orange peel oil. Beautiful cellar.