Is it the new decor, which definitively breaks with the bourgeois tradition of this Maison Rostang, whose colors it still displays? In any case, we've never enjoyed Nicolas Beaumann's cuisine so much, with the support of Stéphane Manigold, a successful serial entrepreneur. In fact, this chic with a beautiful personality and selected materials (parquet, brick, rough stone...) surrounds a team very solidly supervised by the experienced Frédéric Rouen (ex Ducasse, ex Goujon...) and the chef's works, given ample confidence to really express themselves. Among the appetizers, for example, is a thunderous reworking of onion soup, which also includes a convincing lentil emulsion-matured saint-pierre. The scallops from Grandcamp, in their prime season, are splendid with a jus des bardes au vin rouge, crunchy cauliflower and crumble, the cake-style pike finds a justly powerful bisque, the turbot lacks a little sea but no idea, and the wagyu finds support that steals the show, cheek and tongue confit with a fig oil sauce. Last but not least, chef David Boudinet's excellent desserts, including the pear with almond and rose geranium, are coherent. The wine cellar is always a strength, with a choice to suit every budget and a large list of wines by the glass, including a prestige selection, all served by a dedicated sommelier.