Everything has settled down in this legendary institution on Rue Rennequin. The salon is quiet, the regulars are happy and the finest products are rushing into the kitchens to delight diners. Nicolas Beaumann takes care of the essentials, perpetuating what has already been achieved and developing a rich menu of today's dishes, including sole de petit bateau meunière, with no false notes: pike quenelle and lobster cream, chard and tart apples, shellfish cream with vermouth, barbecued wagyu ribeye with sand carrots and green shiso. A fine balance between tradition and the present, right down to the pear confit in bergamot-infused juice and sage sorbet. A bill worthy of the place, but a "small" lunch menu at €85, with a cellar of great classics.