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37-39 rue Boissière
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La Table des Amis - Le Mas Les Eydins

84480 BONNIEUX
3 PHOTOS
Chef Christophe Bacquié
Cooking French | Signature cuisine
Gault&Millau's review
17/20
Prestige Restaurant Alexandra and Christophe Bacquié found their happiness in Provence, and now share it with their guests. Two years after leaving Le Castellet and its five flamboyant toques, the Corsican chef by adoption shines in his garden and this house where he built everything with his wife. In this intimate, almost family-style setting, they have installed a peaceful, serene luxury as in a Tuscan locanda, and what was only intended to be a table d'hôte in addition to the beautiful rooms in the countryside beneath the village of Bonnieux has already become one of the most attractive spots in the area, preserving the codes of the genre: a private place with a closed gate, a shared arrival time, a single, imposed menu, simultaneous service of each dish. Over and above all these constraints, Alexandra and Christophe have brought professionalism (in the welcome, the atmosphere, the diligent young service staff, to whom the chef himself lends a hand in plate presentation), rigor and, of course, great mastery in the kitchen, which enables them to produce, with limited improvisation, four-course meals studded with delicate attentions. The knife-cut red tuna covered with a corolla of osciètre, with baeri bottarga sorbet criste-marine, is a marvel of iodized freshness after the elaborate appetizers (a beautiful mouthful of creamy peas pollen flower and elderberry). The mackerel ("blue arrow") is gravlaxed with creamy ravioli and celery broth with roasted bones, while the white asparagus with shavings of prisuttu and burnt lemon sabayon is a silky interlude before a magnificent back of sea bass (from Mathieu Chapel, the star fisherman of Grau du Roi) with turnip cabbage and glazed radishes, swimming in tagetes oil. Desserts by the brilliant Japanese chef Keisuke Sato include strawberries of various ripenesses with subtle juices and fragrant Japanese mugwort sorbet, as well as tasty financiers with Corsican hazelnut flour. The cellar, built by Christophe himself, is well anchored in local appellations, and not too heavily weighted towards fine labels from all over, in Burgundy as well as Languedoc, with of course some fine Corsican wines.
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84480 Bonnieux
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