In this distinguished hotel, with paid parking, the gastro restaurant has been moved up a level to accommodate a new décor and an open kitchen. Chef Rémi Chambard and his young, talented brigade have resolutely opted for the terroir option: there's plenty of it to go around, in an atmosphere that's nevertheless bourgeois and urbane. The storytelling evokes Belleville sorrel and Prince de Paris pig, but also the people who grow and produce them, like Grégory Spinelli and his mushrooms from the family's ancestral quarry, served in a delicious consommé d'accueil or in a superb starter, sliced over Pontoise cabbage and crispy filo pastry, surrounded by a pretty agastache sauce, a starter that's both sober and punchy. The cuisine of this excellent chef is made like this: no excessive lyricism, little real fantasy, but great technical mastery, impeccable juices and sauces, dressings without a scratch: the scallops with Suresnes chardonnay, well seasoned with a parsley insert, the superb pike-perch with saffron emulsion and delicately acidic leek, the pigeon with beet and bonbon des cuisses en effilochée belong to this register of three toques affirmed by goldsmith's work. A pleasing dessert of vanilla, toasted rice and crème de la Chalotterie, a fine cellar with an abundance of noble labels and expensive wines by the glass.