Le Coquillage

35350 SAINT-MÉLOIR-DES-ONDES
17.5/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© DR
© Romain Bassenne
© Anne Claire Heraud
10 PHOTOS
Chef
Hugo Roellinger
Cooking
French | Gastronomic | Seafood | Signature cuisine
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Private Parking
Style
Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
215 € to 275 €

Gault&Millau's review

17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant Here, you have to take your time. On the terrace, weather permitting. Suspended moments. Contemplating the sublime bay and the silhouette of Mont-Saint-Michel. But also in the cosy lounges of this imposing, centuries-old building, whose soul is palpable. The two very different but comfortable dining rooms open onto the horizon. So, let's eat! Between a stroll on the beach - right down there - a fishing trip along the coast, a stroll in the estate's vegetable garden and orchard, a long-distance cruise far away where the spices blossom, Olivier Roellinger invites us on an unforgettable immobile journey, punctuated by flashes of inspiration that transcend each composition. Before getting to the heart of the matter, the appetizers page ensures instant immersion in Hugo's universe, a most dazzling trailer. The meal can then begin. The local oyster makes a majestic entrance. It is cleverly paired with melon, which a few drops of tagetes oil and tiny beads of "garden" caviar lemon deftly energize. A granita of yellow tomato and strawberry blows a fragrant breeze. The liveliness doesn't falter with the next step. On a pebble, thin slices of sea bream, just marinated and sprinkled with a mixture of blackberries and sumac, bask. We're then invited to dip them in a wild blackberry and yuzu condiment, flanked by a vinaigrette with hints of blackberry and lovage. This is followed by "bouquet" shrimp on a crumbly tartlet, vegetalized by pollen, herbs and flowers. The whole is enhanced by an airy mousseline of elderberry and seaweed powder. The cuttlefish is another delight. The cuttlefish is lightly grilled over a wood fire before being coated with goji oil and hazelnuts (pressed every morning... sorry!). The crowning touch is a six-month maturing of Aquitaine caviar grains. A sauce of Paimpol coconuts, almond milk and hazelnut butter is then poured over it. Pure delight. Then comes the lobster, cooked as just as possible, its body subtly covered with a condiment of sun-dried tomatoes and green mango powder, exposing it to a beautiful light. The accompanying cocoa and sherry sauce, spiced up with Mexican chillies, is diabolically gourmet. As for the claw, it is adorned with a coral sauce, trout roe and hot chili pepper, like a final bite to be savored with reverence. The journey continues until dessert time. Vanillas from Mayotte, Tahiti and Mexico combine to offer the floating island a change of scenery of incredible subtlety and depth of flavor. A tonic and balanced "island toddy" (hot cider, white rum, cinnamon and ginger) brings the cruise to a close. In the dining room, everything is under control. A natural, highly professional team moves with elegance and good humor. Leafing through the wine list opens up a delightful range of possibilities, from top-of-the-range flasks (Rayas 2012, Yquem 1997...) to a host of much more affordable offerings, all scrupulously selected and commented on with conviction: maranges from domaine Sextant, saumur from Clos Mélaric, côtes catalanes "Coyade" from domaine Vinci...
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35350 Saint-Méloir-des-Ondes
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People
  • Hugo Roellinger
    Hugo Roellinger Chef
    Hugo Roellinger Hugo Roellinger Chef
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    Jérôme Aumont Sous Chef
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Jérôme Aumont Sous Chef
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Mathieu Battais Sous Chef
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Mathieu Battais Sous Chef
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    Emmanuel Ackerer Chef de service
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Emmanuel Ackerer Chef de service
  • Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4
    Valentine Roy Head waiter
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Valentine Roy Head waiter
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    Gaylord Goulette Head sommelier
    Created with Fabric.js 5.2.4 Gaylord Goulette Head sommelier