Continuous high quality for the bistro version of a regalade once orchestrated by Yves Camdeborde and now signed by Bruno Doucet. The menu is straightforward and gives more than it bargains for: pot de terrine, onion soup, celery remoulade with crab and green apple, croque-monsieur, macaroni gratin with comté cheese, Ospital pork belly and green lentils, pork trotters with mustard purée... Large, cheerful selection of classic desserts, extensive cellar.