La Table des Cimes - La Maison des Cimes

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

4 Chemin des Landes, 25160 Malbuisson, France

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

9 PHOTOS

Chef: Matthias Marc
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local | Signature cuisine
Style: Elegant | Exceptional setting | Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

110 to 160

Gault&Millau's review 2026

This is clearly one of the highlights of the fall 2026 season: Matthias Marc, a former successful contestant on “Top Chef” but above all a highly acclaimed chef who helmed Substance (Paris’s 16th arrondissement) for seven years, has returned to his roots in the Doubs region, where he grew up in a family of loggers. He is, of course, not alone in this venture, which may seem a bit crazy—especially in 2026—and especially on the shores of a lake (the location is absolutely magical) perched at an altitude of nearly 1,000 meters, where winters are often harsh. His wife Hannah, an interior designer, has of course joined him in this multi-million-euro project, both in the design of the ten or so magnificent rooms and suites (not all of which were finished during our visit) and in the decoration of the superb dining room, where every detail, right down to the angles of the lighting, has been meticulously thought out. In the kitchen and front of house, Matthias Marc has surrounded himself with many former Substance staff members, notably his former right-hand man Sylvain Courivaud—an expert in open-fire cooking and smoking (he was at the helm of Braise in Paris)—and Eulalie Mariton, also a former sommelier at Braise. On the plate, unsurprisingly, we find all the hallmarks of our former 2020 Young Talent’s cuisine: cancoillotte paired with smoked potatoes, a (magnificent) “vendangeur-style” féra, Muscat grapes, verjus jelly, and horseradish; a foie gras cooked over a log, tender and melt-in-your-mouth, paired with a spiced broth and Buddha’s hand—though the latter does slightly overpower the delicacy of the foie gras— followed by the must-try gnocchi au gratin (a chef’s signature touch), topped with a thin slice of melt-in-your-mouth Comté cheese and served with Morteau sausage and a Vin Jaune sauce. The culinary journey continues with a lovely two-course char (though the barbecued quenelle, submerged in a highly concentrated crayfish bisque accented with an overpowering geranium note, didn’t quite win us over), a sumptuous “au feu” Miéral pigeon, with fermented mirabelle plums, chanterelle mushrooms, and a (perfect) lemongrass-infused XO sauce, concluding in style with lovely desserts that boldly feature acidity, vinegar, pine, and chili. A magnificent wine cellar with excellent commentary; the staff was clearly delighted to be part of such a feast, which is undoubtedly best appreciated after fasting since the day before.