It's true that Jean-François Piège's (magnificent) daily tribute to bourgeois and local cuisine is a little expensive, even if the lunch menu, at €48, allows you to try the great chef's version of herring pommes à l'huile and veal head and tongue for a reasonable sum. But let's face it, it's hard (impossible?) to find in Paris a veal blanquette of such nobility, or crispy sole goujonnettes with tartar sauce, that will have you digging back into your Escoffier to see if, by chance, you couldn't try to reproduce these dishes in your own little home kitchen. That's the Piège version of Poule au Pot: you don't invent anything, and yet you only dream of copying it, because the foie gras in terrine is marvellous, the beef tartare prepared at your table is grandiose, and the dessert cart is a spectacle in itself. The cellar is not to be outdone, varied and interesting, and the service is in the right spirit.