La Bonne Étape

04160 CHÂTEAU-ARNOUX-SAINT-AUBAN

14/20
Chef's Restaurant

5 PHOTOS

Chef Jany Gleize

Cooking French | Local

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

95€ à 195€

Gault&Millau's review

14/20

Chef's Restaurant L'étape is a must-see in the Provencal hinterland, a Relais & Châteaux that exudes a family soul. Nearly forty years have passed since the early days of Jany Gleize, who took over the house to make it one of the most renowned addresses of the 1980s, going so far as to prepare dinner for the heads of state during the bicentenary of the French Revolution. Since then, the hotel-restaurant has built up a wise reputation, founded on a love of the product and a sense of welcome, embodied in the classic bourgeois spirit of this grand hall with its seigniorial air, tangled, sculpted beams, François Ier chairs and paintings of woodland landscapes. The spirit seems frozen in a golden age that a loyal clientele loves to return to, with old-fashioned service as in the houses of the masters, and familiar, mastered recipes prepared as tributes, more to celebrate the past than the present, Half-cooked Ecrins trout with lemon emulsion and Kampot pepper, elderberry, mint and caviar, on a rather banal zucchini montage, Camargue veal with potato flowers and heart of Saint Georges, and finally a chocolate cigar with herbal aromas. The cellar is one of the address's best assets, with prestige wines (notably Bordeaux) and verticals (Jamet, Vernay, Tempier...).