This Parisian salon is, in some ways, the Maxim's of the 21st century, and Thomas Boullault is its jovial amphitryon, welcoming captains of industry as well as artists and models, with the same sincerity and desire to make things beautiful and good in a setting where people kiss, congratulate and embrace as in Feydeau's time. Only the finest products are used here, with the creations of the moment embellished with truffles, morels and caviar, according to individual tastes and the season. Highlights include the now-famous smoked potato with seaweed butter caviar and sour cream, the perfect truffle egg with corn espuma, and the tangy crab remoulade with green apple-fennel water curry infused with lovage. The fishing is often good, the lobster neighbors a fine slab of St. Pierre with morel mushrooms, green asparagus and jus marbled with Arbois wine, and the rack of lamb with periwinkles and Swiss chard in chimichurri sauce provides yet another certificate of technical excellence. Everything here makes sense and is in harmony, the distribution is unsurprising, the Dom Pé' by the cup, the Lalos bread, the Bordier butter, the room lively, not to say noisy, since each guest has only important words to share. The soufflé or the chocolate dessert with hot pecan espuma and vanilla tonka ice cream smoked with hay are all top-notch, and the large, beautiful cellar is served by a resourceful and knowledgeable sommelier.
