Who could have imagined so much warmth in the rough, bare stone of the counter and floor, the dark, almost austere bricks and the general impression of emptiness, which Romain Mahi and Ayumi Sugiyama so easily manage to fill. In fact, it's a balancing act, introducing the chef's highly personal and lively cuisine, exhibiting miniatures of terroir, reduced and very dense compositions, which are experienced in depth. Impressions are always quite long, in the intensity of sauces and the complexity of textures, a risotto of tapioca and salicornia, hake, green apples, pressed watercress, a stuffed blue lobster, duck and foie gras, onions, lobster and coral sabayon, asparagus leaves and rice tuile, an terre-mer of wild salmon and beef cecina, smoked beurre blanc, ballotine of ratte potatoes and preserved lemon, of great finesse and remarkable precision in cooking, poularde and an eel and gorgonzola raviole, morels and black fruit crush. Desserts are made by Ayumi, including her signature dish, sugar ball, rosemary and lemon, caramelized cashews, blueberries and pomelo. The cellar is equally fine, with a tightly-packed selection of old vintages, sakes and foreign wines. The ceramics are also by Romain Mahi and Ayumi Sugiyama.