Ineffable

Rating: 14.5
Author: Gault&Millau

3 Rue Grande, 13570 Barbentane, France

14.5/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

14 PHOTOS

Chef: Nicolas Thomas
Cooking: French | Gastronomic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

105 to 135

Gault&Millau's review 2026

In just two years, the former pizzeria in the medieval village of Barbentane (between Alpilles and Camargue) has been converted into an elegant, modern and intimate setting by the young and enthusiastic duo of Marie Salomez (winner of the 2025 Young Talent award for the dining room, still perfect alone in service) and Nicolas Thomas (sparkling solo in the kitchen), and has become a must for all enlightened connoisseurs in the region. Just four evenings a week, a privileged few of us, having made reservations several weeks in advance, come to enjoy this hushed, confidential atmosphere, barely disturbed by an original playlist of birdsong in the background. There's a choice of two five-course menus (€105 or €135), whose poetic titles nicely highlight the main ingredients on each plate. Nicolas's highly personal, technically accomplished cuisine emphasizes iodine, vegetables and fruit. During our spring visit, for example, we were particularly won over by a grandiose starter combining green asparagus, bergamot and kiwi, as well as a dessert combining strawberry and verjuice. But come to think of it, the first course of oysters, peas and citrus fruit, and the second of lean meat and morel mushrooms were almost on a par! An extra half-point already this year for this remarkable cuisine d'auteur, full of creativity (even the appetizers are stunning), finesse and lightness, and three toques clearly in sight for this Provencal gem, especially if the wine selection improves in price range...