Hakuba - Cheval Blanc Paris

75001 PARIS

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

9 PHOTOS

Chef Takuya Watanabe

Cooking Gastronomic | Japanese

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

180€ à 380€

Gault&Millau's review

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant The magnetic attraction of Japan for top French chefs, and vice versa, is obvious. So it's hardly surprising that, in keeping with the logic of palace and prestige, a convergence of views was established between LVMH and Arnaud Donckèle: in addition to Italian (Langosteria), brewery chic (Tout-Paris) and haute gastro (Plénitude), Cheval Blanc Paris needed a top-of-the-range Japanese chef, the likes of which the capital has only a handful. On stage, an undisputed master, Takuya Watanabe, who made the reputation of Jin, in osmosis with Arnaud Donckele for a cuisine that is both pure and ritualistic, to which the great five-toque chef brings all his curiosity, but also his science and foresight. The result is astonishing: framing the sushi section, which is as impressive as you'd expect, with seafood of the highest degree of perfection (the different parts of tuna, cuttlefish, lobster, lisette...), plates that are both pure and singular, combining cultures: as seen, for example, on abalone, the gambon so dear to the prince of the Vague d'or tropézienne, the remarkable tamago, not forgetting the desserts also inspired by the quintessence of Japanese sweets for the works of Maxime Frédéric (rhubarb, strawberry, "ume", the Japanese plum). The moment demands sustained attention for the amount of information received during a breathless journey, hardly conducive to intimate exchanges, but obviously fascinating, especially if we add the stroll through the world of sakes, tea and wines chosen by a sommelier team, also out of the ordinary, brilliantly led by Emmanuel Cadieu.