Christophe Hay - Fleur de Loire

41000 BLOIS

18.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

12 PHOTOS

Chef Christophe Hay

Cooking Gastronomic

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

110€ à 260€

Gault&Millau's review

18.5/20

Prestige Restaurant Space, light, softness. True luxury! It's easy to understand why Parisians treat themselves to the plenitude and calm of a cosmos they'd never dream of, just an hour and a half from home. This whiteness by the river is accompanied by purity: in the style of the entire house, where each person carries out his or her mission with heart and commitment, and in the cuisine of Christophe Hay, who feeds off his Loire, literally and figuratively. The excellent sourdough bread, the butter, the rapeseed oil, the vegetables from the nearby kitchen garden, the caviar, the fish and game - everything that enters the kitchen, for the most part, carries the Loire flag. The opening black bass is a case in point: from the Hennequart ponds (producers of Sologne caviar), flamed and raw, enhanced by the crunchy puntarelle from the kitchen garden, a subtle mayo-style sauce that's both sober and gourmet, it's a great signature dish, the first step in a farandole that continues with endive and truffle, frankly astonishing in its concentration and fragrance, which the chef patiently gathers from the foot of his oak trees near Chambord. The "toque Adolphe Clerc" brings together wild boar, doe and sweetbreads in a superb classic (taken from an all-game menu in season), each plate bearing the same virtues, respecting and highlighting the central ingredient, not without a great deal of work on the satellites, As in this silurid composition - soft, suave - with a beautiful variation on corn (local, of course) or in the totally accomplished version of carp à la Chambord, Christophe Hay's version, modern, refined and just as expressive as the original. Not to be forgotten, to complete the feast, is wagyu raised nearby, worked leaf to leaf with a remarkable garum and sweet potato, the whole salted with a beef ham powder. The young chefs take it in turns to deliver to each table, showing their commitment and motivation, while the service as a whole, while still a little recitative, is very attentive and up to the challenge. Fine desserts, including a very seductive creation based on New Caledonian Pompona vanilla, a truly enjoyable cellar, ideal in its construction, a very strong emphasis on the valley's vineyards, respecting the other regions with a few indisputable signatures, a furtive look at foreign countries, and above all a variety of prices that allow you to treat yourself. When it comes to total pairings, fine wines and discoveries, sommelier Hugo Vasseur finds the right answers by sharing his passion.

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