His stints at Westermann and Drouant are evident in Nicolas Eche's technique, trained at the right school and able to honor his apprenticeships. The bistro, though a little out of the way, has a real flair for quality, both in its welcome and in its cuisine. The chef works with the seasons, either à la carte or on a competitively priced menu, creating compositions that alternate noble and market produce with undeniable ease. The cellar is a perfect match.