The place is always on a par with the neighborhood: trendy, ascetic decor and Adrien Ferrand's combination of the unusual and the gourmet. The smoked eel is there, it's beautiful, it piques curiosity and reconciles those traumatized by Tommy; the rest of the menu makes you want to eat: Isigny oysters, pak choï and sea lettuce, cod confit sublimated by a beurre blanc scallop sauce, a baba praliné accompanied by a kiwi-estragon marmalade... Just long enough to wonder whether Pantagruel might meet Lucullus, we grab the cellar book and take flight: a refreshingly elegant rosé de saignée, Calsac's extra brut champagne alongside JM Sélèque, among other marvels on two pages of Champagne references. The other regions are just as well represented, with sure values, a few curiosities and joys such as La Femme Soleil. The staff, simple in their competence, offer relevant and pleasant advice; it's a table in the middle of the zeitgeist without following fashion, which is bad luck, as Desproges used to say.