It's the kind of address that reminds us of the strength of the Basque country, where good food is found almost everywhere. These small village inns rival by far the best bistros in the country, and even in their simplicity, are able to express a unique identity and savoir-faire. Margaret Lienhardt's superb regional cuisine is in perfect harmony with the setting, an 18th-century farmhouse in traditional colors. Highlights include Christian Parra's crispy black pudding, scallops and crisp salad, duck confit with porcini mushrooms and pommes soufflées, lamb shank and truffle potato crumble, and a frosted lemon tart. A warm welcome.