Winner of last year's Gault&Millau Tour Île-de-France, Frédéric Hubig is the perfect host to celebrate a certain Parisian spirit of eternal epicurean festivity. And if the formula is easy, let's hope it's true: Astier will always be Astier, in other words, a bulwark against uniformity, the sadness of snacked octopus that died for nothing, beet hummus and tuna tataki. There's joy to be found in the truly innovative dishes: herring marinated in grenailles, frogs' legs, grandmother's guinea fowl with Agria apple cake, real pepper sauce on Simmental filet and pommes dauphine. It's serious, yet there's laughter at every table, and the wine is good, drawn from another source of pleasure, the cellar. Two toques this year.