Vive

Rating: 12
Author: Gault&Millau

75017 PARIS

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

12 PHOTOS

Chef: Stéphanie Le Quellec
Cooking: French | Modern | Seafood
Style: Casual | Romantic | With friends

Gault&Millau's review 2025

More than a concept, it's a place and a history that David and Stéphanie Le Quellec have made their own. While Stéphanie is indeed on the Avenue Matignon stage, David, a lifelong Breton and free of the Moulin-Rouge, is more committed to this wonderful post-Rech adventure. This Vive doesn't just feature live fish, but the whole sea and the trends of the moment, from matured fish - four-month-old tuna, detailed like a jabugo, makes a rather delightful ham - to fresh shellfish and oysters, but also traditional Canaillou dishes (stuffed prairie, fish soup). After a fine yellowtail (one week in a maturing room) in carpaccio with bottarga, kumquat and kalamansi vinegar, filleted whiting is impeccable (whole fish are €13 per 100g) with miso sake butter (a little too much sake) and a side dish (extra) of spinach shoots and katsuobushi, and to finish off, a good bourdaloue tart in a limited and sufficient choice of desserts. The cellar is classic, the glasses logically expensive, the bread from Lalos, the service in keeping with the tone of this chic, seaside diner for the happy few, which can be enjoyed at the counter or at the table, for around a hundred euros.