Bistro/Brasserie | Wine Bar | With children | With friends
Budget(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
29 to 89
Gault&Millau's review2026
He promised it, he did it: Simon Carlier has reintroduced an à la carte menu alongside his imposed hidden menus, a godsend for restaurant-goers who don't need surprise nursery rhymes sung to them. Of course, it's going to take some time to get used to the idea, and perhaps to build a wider bridge with this menu, which for the moment is of an obviously deliberate bourgeois classicism (lobster, crab, stuffed morels, royal hare, pigeon, vol au vent, pollack...), but the potential is there. We didn't see the owner in the kitchen any more than we did last time, but the essentials are well provided by his team, even if the service was a little long in this neutral, non-air-conditioned setting: a good foie frais in Lucullus, artichokes and fried artichokes only remotely reminiscent of the Valenciennes specialty, the very gourmet vol-au-vent with sweetbreads and morels, strawberry meringue and chocolate dessert a tone below. One of the strong points of this restaurant is its cellar of over 100 references, attractive both in its choice and its prices.