Régis et Jacques Marcon

43290 SAINT-BONNET-LE-FROID

Gault&Millau Academy's member

BOOK

3 PHOTOS

Chef Jacques Marcon

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Local | specialty

Services Cooking classes | For people with disabilities | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

240€ à 310€

Gault&Millau's review

Gault&Millau Academy's member France's wisest five-toque restaurant is still one of the country's most exciting and, as luck would have it, busiest, with 80% of its clientele French - the kind of clientele that has abandoned palaces and other glitzy establishments. Régis and Jacques Marcon have always shown concern, respect and solicitude for their environment, both natural and human, and the world of agriculture in particular. In their magnificent contemporary farmhouse overlooking the hills, with bay windows set on the grass to be on a level with nature, father and son bring all the serenity of a family home into a setting of supreme elegance. Jacques, master of the ovens, accompanies nature's song in perfect osmosis, with that almost innate science of harmonics: langoustine and meadowsweet, in three courses, one broth, tartare and amanite des césars, grilled and raw porcini. In autumn, of course, it's the mushroom festival ("there are almost too many this year", sighs the chef, who is nonetheless delighted with the opportunity). Diners will have the chance to get acquainted with the meunier, whose mill flavour is accentuated by the petit épeautre, with the five varieties that surround this small mussel cake scented with cistre, with the cèpe en majesté, roasted on chestnut leaves, served with a cèpe sabayon on a lovage coulis, or with the aniseed-flavoured clitocybe, picked in the morning and prepared to illustrate the indispensable "mushroom tea" in the middle of the meal. The theme inspires the imagination and creates great dishes, such as this new vision of Arctic char, with its expressive pilaf-cooked blond peas and delicious, modest chanterelles, or the embeurrée of curly sparassis on a filet of guinea fowl with raisins and walnuts, cooked to a juicy perfection. Dessert is just as symbolic: gourmet, fruity, creamy (the blueberries are a delight!), chocolatey, all the pleasures of grown-up children are satisfied. The wine cellar offers both considerable and targeted variety: fair prices for both small and large wines (and even some very good deals on older vintages) and a very wide choice at around €100, below and above, to find what you're looking for in all regions. Last but not least, the friendly, attentive service, aided by Régis who seems as happy to help in the dining room and advise guests as he is to assist his son in the kitchen, is a model of simplicity, courtesy and professionalism.