Dominique Maës and his team celebrated a quarter-century of "three toques" this year, a rare longevity that can be explained by the daily and repeated work of a chef with a passion for fine produce, who has regularly updated his cuisine while maintaining a classic base: pouring free-range egg, forgotten vegetables and mushrooms, sea bream, saffron rice pilaf with paella accents, broccolinis in beurre blanc sauce before a raspberry crunch, rose and lychee cream in an ensemble that's both silky and reassuring. A superb cellar built and commented on with passion by Laurent Piro.