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Le Relais Bernard Loiseau - La Côte d'Or

2 avenue Bernard Loiseau, 21210 Saulieu, France
17.5/20
Prestige Restaurant

Practical information

Location
Saulieu
Chef
Louis-Philippe Vigilant
Cooking
French | Gastronomic
Services
Access for people with disabilities, Accommodation, Children's Menu, Garden, Pets allowed, Private Parking, Valet parking
Style
Elegant, Romantic
Budget (€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
155 to 310

Gault&Millau's review 2026

17,5/20
Prestige Restaurant
Let's face it, a year or two ago, when the handover was completed between Patrick Bertron, a bit like the guardian of the Sédéloci temple, and Louis-Philippe Vigilant, who had arrived from Loiseau des Ducs in Dijon, we were still allowed to wait. Admittedly, the chef has been immersed in the group for many years, but still! Saulieu, Loiseau, the house of Dumaine! That's it! Would you believe it, but this year we met a totally fulfilled chef, steeped in a surprisingly deep-rooted local culture. In no time at all, he's created a network of dedicated local suppliers, knows everyone in Saulieu and is building the life he and his family want. If we add the involvement of the two Loiseau sisters, Bérangère, who runs the house with as much energy as she does good intuition, intelligence and foresight, and Blanche, who has returned to the fold for good and who also seems to have found her happiness here, we'd say that the planets align nicely in this Burgundian sky. The renovations have modernized and embellished the whole, the rotunda-shaped dining room still opens onto a magnificent garden, and this shared serenity reflects on a team as motivated as ever, and on a cuisine we haven't seen at this level for a long time. A first feat with this remarkable variation on the pochouse aiglefin trout caviar Kristal all in finesse and gourmandise, the good and large scallops from Port-en-Bessin following, with Jerusalem artichoke and beard juice with Morvan cider, opening in the best way. A new ascension with Breton lobster with pointed cabbage, clementine and bisque with cabbage purée, a very fine piece of technical work that makes it a great, subtle dish, and wild garlic lamb with morel mushrooms stuffed with panoufle jus réduit, which finds just the right balance while bringing something new to the table. Without losing his natural distinction and phlegm, MOF sommelier Éric Goettelmann accompanies these adventures with ease and erudition, always capable of surprising the connoisseur with his finds, even in his own region, through a huge cellar of Burgundy wines, leaving little room elsewhere, but picking out interesting bottles from each vineyard and visiting France in great depth, deliberately excluding all foreign wines (the same efforts are made on the spirits and liqueurs list, including local gins and whiskies). Last but not least, Lucile Vigilant's desserts are right on target, with the apple celery chartreuse forming an ideal trio with just the right amount of acidity, as does the Valrhona 69% bière du Morvan chocolate ice cream and cazette.

Map

Map — Le Relais Bernard Loiseau - La Côte d'Or
2 avenue Bernard Loiseau, 21210 Saulieu, France
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Opening hours

OPENING HOURS

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People
  • Louis-Philippe Vigilant
    Louis-Philippe Vigilant Chef
    Louis-Philippe Vigilant Louis-Philippe Vigilant Chef
  • Lucile Vigilant
    Lucile Vigilant Pastry Chef
    Lucile Vigilant Lucile Vigilant Pastry Chef
  • Éric Goettelmann
    Éric Goettelmann Head sommelier
    Éric Goettelmann Éric Goettelmann Head sommelier
  • Léa Poitevin
    Léa Poitevin Chef de service
    Léa Poitevin Léa Poitevin Chef de service
  • Matthieu Derible
    Matthieu Derible Chef de partie
    Matthieu Derible Matthieu Derible Chef de partie