Le Relais Bernard Loiseau - La Côte d'Or

21210 SAULIEU
17/20
 Prestige Restaurant
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© Jonathan Thévenet
© Jonathan Thévenet
© Jonathan Thévenet
14 PHOTOS
Chef
Louis-Philippe Vigilant
Cooking
French | Gastronomic
Services
Access for people with disabilities | Accomodation | Children's Menu | Garden | Pets allowed | Private Parking | Valet parking
Style
Elegant | Romantic
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
155 € to 310 €

Gault&Millau's review

17/20
Prestige Restaurant Renovation for greater comfort and practicality... Rest assured, however, that the work undertaken in 2025 will in no way alter the soul of the institution, the perfect incarnation of a grand provincial house with all its comforting, enveloping qualities. It's an unfailing pleasure to return to the great hall, with its Burgundian terracotta floor tiles, its emblematic timber frame and its soothing view over the exquisite, overgrown garden. The staff are as affable and attentive as ever, distinguished without being rigid. Louis-Philippe Vigilant, Patrick Bertron's successor, must now stamp his own personality on the building, adding his own touch with the agility and discretion of a feline approaching its prey. It's a balancing act that consists of evolving while preserving the spirit of the place, without denying the fundamentals. Like the ravens in the Tower of London, whose presence protects the British Crown, frogs' knuckles, parsley coulis and garlic purée are always on the menu. How reassuring! The hymn to the region also takes the form of a contemporary pochouse, a matelote in a version that respects its codes and roots, but whose initial rusticity gives way to fluidity. The aligoté sauce has a gourmet depth. The plate is composed of pike quenelle, smoked trout roe, salt-marinated trout and pike-perch, accompanied by tasty Dijon mushrooms. Iodine in all its glory bursts onto the table with a magnificent section of turbot. Small local potatoes are confit in seaweed butter and topped with Kristal caviar. A very sapid shellfish emulsion reinforces the marine dimension, which is even amplified with the addition of samphire, sea fennel and sea rockrose. To follow, we return to earth with a medallion of veal browned in a sauté pan, attractively rosy and spiked with Colonnata bacon. The concise accompaniment: crisp green asparagus, truffle mousseline, in perfect harmony with a roasted cazette emulsion whose distinctive flavor can be found in a veal jus with character. As for the dessert, a classy combination of chocolate and wild Morvan sorrel (sorbet, sprout, emulsion, juice with green olive oil), as well as a gavotte with fleur de sel. As for the wine list, it's breathtaking in its depth, brimming with the finest regional references.
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Address 2 Avenue Bernard Loiseau
21210 Saulieu
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Monday Lunch Dinner
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People
  • Louis-Philippe Vigilant
    Louis-Philippe Vigilant Chef
    Louis-Philippe Vigilant Louis-Philippe Vigilant Chef
  • Lucile Vigilant
    Lucile Vigilant Pastry Chef
    Lucile Vigilant Lucile Vigilant Pastry Chef
  • Éric Goettelmann
    Éric Goettelmann Head sommelier
    Éric Goettelmann Éric Goettelmann Head sommelier
  • Marie Bianco
    Marie Bianco Chef de service
    Marie Bianco Marie Bianco Chef de service
  • Charly Co
    Charly Co Chef de service
    Charly Co Charly Co Chef de service