Le Neuvième Art

Rating: 17
Author: Gault&Millau

173 Rue Cuvier, 69006 Lyon, France

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

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9 PHOTOS

Location: Lyon
Chef: Christophe Roure
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Signature cuisine
Services: Access for people with disabilities, Children's Menu, Pets allowed
Style: Elegant, Exceptional setting, Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

150 to 240

Gault&Millau's review 2026

17/20

Prestige Restaurant

In this house in the Brotteaux neighborhood, there’s no theatrical decor: Vavro has chosen black and white, thick carpeting, generous curtains, velvet, and wooden and steel tables without tablecloths to create a cozy, almost secret refuge where nothing distracts from the food. We are here in the home of a chef first and foremost, rather than a restaurateur. Christophe Roure, a 2007 MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) who trained under Pierre Gagnaire, Régis Marcon, and Paul Bocuse, possesses a solid classical foundation that allows for complete creative freedom: cryogenics, poaching, the siphon, or confit are never mere showmanship but rather the tools of a contemporary cuisine that is highly structured, graphic, precise, and often infused with Japanese rigor. His compositions begin with a beautiful ingredient, accompanied by just a few elements, and seek the perfect balance between richness and acidity, sweetness and bitterness, briny and vegetal, tender and crispy. The pan-seared duck foie gras, perfectly thick, finds a refreshing balance in the anise-flavored melon and, above all, in the tonka bean—that decisive touch that transforms a seemingly simple pairing into a truly memorable dining experience. The Cévennes char, coated at the table with 90°C beeswax and then served with lemon butter and fried artichoke, combines elegance, melt-in-your-mouth texture, and a composition of almost jewel-like precision. The superb pigeon from Pierre-Eudes Quintart is boldly served on a skewer, enlivened by rhubarb with hibiscus, while the pastilla-confit thigh, the reduced jus, and black garlic lend the dish depth, distinction, and a remarkable umami flavor. With warm cardamom-infused cherries, Crémet d’Angers, and a faux cherry topped with Bavarian cream, Tanguy Nourrisson crafts a generous, precise, and utterly indulgent dessert, followed by a Genoa cake with familiar, comforting notes. The meal concludes with petits fours worthy of a top-tier restaurant, culminating in a Tropezienne to share. Victor Gschaedler elevates this cuisine with a wine cellar featuring approximately 900 labels, notable above all for its depth of Burgundian and Rhône wines, while the by-the-glass selection prioritizes character over quantity. Under the supervision of Vimal Mohit, the service is precise and attentive. It is regrettable, however, that the first guests are relegated to the back of the room, with some even sitting with their backs to the decor and thus partly deprived of the view, while better-positioned tables, arranged in a “10:10” configuration, remain unoccupied all evening.