Kei

75001 PARIS

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

8 PHOTOS

Chef Kei Kobayashi

Cooking French | Gastronomic | Japanese | specialty

Services Valet parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

158€ à 450€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant One can only dream: what if a chef as gifted as Kei Kobayashi, with such a passion for classic French cuisine, were to offer a true French-style menu, as some of his compatriots did in the 1980s (Watanabe, Kurihara and others), with a wide range of game pies, mallards, plump partridges or hare à la royale? Tasting this superb grouse the other day with an impeccable whisky sauce and a delicious leg lacquered with rich jus, one is naturally reminded of the agapes of epicurean abundance that the former pupil of Gilles Goujon and Jean-François Piège, now based in Gérard Besson's house, lavishes on us here. But these are times of discretion, moderation and economy, and we'll no doubt be staying for a while at these hidden menus (€360 and €440), which distill the "chef's culinary universe", so extolled by the team in the dining room, into just a few beautiful dishes. The ostra regal raifort échalote sorbet granny, the excellent langoustine de casier encre de seiche amande fraîche and petits dés de foie de pigeon are all part of this feast told in a silky atmosphere under the Murano chandelier, the only dilemma posed at the start of the meal concerning Galician beef, Vendée pigeon or Japanese wagyu. A little Kristal caviar, superb crockery, bread from Lalos and Beillevaire butter, a perfectly regulated protocol right up to the graphic dessert (like a lemon-chestnut meringue egg). A wise and very classic cellar from a great house, expensive overall (especially by the glass), with our rich climats and our very expensive Bordeaux wines.