Château de la Gaude

13100 AIX-EN-PROVENCE

17/20
Prestige Restaurant

BOOK

7 PHOTOS

Chef Matthieu Dupuis Baumal

Cooking French

Services Accomodation | Cooking classes | Private parking

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

97€ à 185€

Gault&Millau's review

17/20

Prestige Restaurant Mastering energy. This could be an eco-responsible slogan, but in Matthieu Dupuis Baumal's vision, it's more the quality of a Japanese martial arts fighter. For this admirer of the Land of the Rising Sun and the samurai (the latest work planted in the patio is a bronze resembling a medieval hero straight out of the world of "Kagemusha"), as tattooed as a yakuza, knows like any good judoka how to use the power of adversity to turn it to his advantage, and channel the energies of all his teams (just over 30 people) into a common project. In just a few years, this 17th-century château's major investment in equipment and personnel bore fruit, and the young, impatient and impetuous chef climbed a new rung on the ladder. Purer, cleaner, more axial, his cooking now adds profound meaning to his ebullient personality. The perfect proof is to compare one of his signature dishes, always on the bill, the artichoke barigoule caviar and beurre blanc champagne, brilliant and demonstrative, with the purity of the red mullet, de roche, so well interpreted with this powerful sauce and saffron velvet, the majestically simple and naked saint-pierre, with its melting turnip and diabolical black garlic condiment, or the exceptionally delicate sweetbreads, melting like lamb's brains, married with an eel worthy of a Japanese master. The brigade led by Matthieu Derible is in unison, the pastry chef achieves other feats (rhubarb hibiscus, but above all strawberry and pea, remarkable) and the immense cellar with its 2000 references and 40,000 bottles, also allows the sommelier to express himself, with an excellent young man, Nicolas Parmentier.