Thibault NIZARD
Chef : 1 restaurantHere's a chef who keeps the promise of L'Aube. A glimmer of hope, the dawn of a new day, and our young chef, winner of the Gault&Millau Endowment, finds the best conditions for success. Just a stone's throw from the Palais-Royal, he set up shop in the contemporary dining room that was once L'Hurluberlu, then Zébulon. With a well-shaped head and solid training (with Guy Savoy at Chiberta and La Monnaie de Paris, Taillevent and Drouant), he has the ambitions of a sultan right from the start, with hidden menus starting at 58 for lunch to €145 for dinner, with night-time after-show entertainment available on reservation (at the Comédie-Française or Théâtre du Palais-Royal). What could possibly motivate a customer to push open the door of a restaurant about which nothing is known, simply by trusting a gastro fare? You'll probably have to follow the good guides, who'll recommend the €95 " Aube " menu, for example. The good products are there, the execution is clean and the compositions are skilfully executed, in a certain classicism that's very well mastered: white asparagus with roasted Prat-Ar-Coum 00 oysters topped with beurre blanc, black cod with winegrower's sauce, eggplant millefeuille and white grapes, or sweetbreads with green asparagus, mustard sabayon and royal peas are ultimately more reassuring than adventurous.and the technical level confirms the legitimacy of the blind investment. Elinor, his wife, pays constant attention to everyone, assisting the chef, who comes to each table to finish and comment on the dishes. And when it comes to the cellar, the right choice is just as certain, since Thibault Nizard has brought with him the sommelier from Drouant with whom he previously worked.
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