From the fires of Marseille to the markets of Lyon, with a detour through Iranian cuisine, three cookbooks tell stories of tradition, regional flavors, and flames.
An ode to Iranian culture and its hearty cuisine, rich in aromatic herbs, dried fruits, vegetables, and grains. Conceived by Rochane Garajedagui, this book showcases the recipes of his Iranian father, Fereydoun. With great clarity, the father-son duo explores a culinary tradition centered around “aches”—soups made with vegetables, grains, and aromatic herbs. We also discover khoreches—meat-based stews—and tah-tchin, rice cakes made with saffron, yogurt, and egg yolk. Each dish is introduced with a brief description that explains the occasions for which it is prepared, as well as its key ingredients and alternatives when those ingredients are unavailable in France. At the heart of the book, interspersed among the recipes, are pages that go beyond the culinary realm to explain specific aspects of the traditional Iranian way of life. A beautiful way to celebrate the culture of a people who need it now more than ever.
▶ Solar — €34.95
Tout Fout l’champ
Part memoir, part novel, this book was born from an encounter—between a socially conscious author on one side and an elected official from the Lyon metropolitan area responsible for food policy on the other. Laetitia and Jérémy, accompanied by Emmanuel, the book’s illustrator, set out to meet those working toward more sustainable agriculture. Through a touching and deeply personal narrative, the reader is taken along with the trio and their donkey, Suzette, on their nine-day journey around Lyon. Through their story, we meet Rémi and Vincent, arborists, as well as Stéphane, the founder of a scientific and technical laboratory specializing in botany, and even the director of a horticultural high school. The book’s goal: to put faces, names, and stories to the people who feed us, so we can understand their passion, their concerns, and—at times—their anger. A book to learn from, to dream with, and to broaden one’s horizons.
▶ Terre vivante — €29
La Flamme
Alexandre Mazzia, chef at Restaurant AM (19/20, 5T), has published his first book. His story is told with great sensitivity through words but, above all, through dishes in which fire can be considered the central element. Alexandre Mazzia employs various techniques—smoking, roasting, and wood-fired cooking—to create some forty recipes. Far removed from the world of food photography studios, the book is unique in that it details recipes conceived on the spot by the chef in a variety of settings. Under the guidance of Franck Ribière and Vérane Frédiani, Alexandre Mazzia creates vibrant, instinctive dishes ranging from simple smoked tomatoes with thyme and rosemary, dressed with a vinaigrette, to fiery desserts, as well as a few bold and spicy sauces that enliven flame-grilled fish. Much more than mere illustrations, the photos immerse the reader in the chef’s world within meaningful settings—and, of course, with Marseille always in the background.
▶ Éditions de La Martinière — €35
And also:
Christian Têtedoie, The Joy of Sharing, by Jean-Baptiste Cocagne (Glénat – €19.95) // Like at the Coffee Shop: 100 Recipes to Share Any Time of Day, by Bogato (Solar – 24.95 €) // A Tribute to Life, Domaine Leflaive, edited by Brice de La Morandière (Skira – 59 €) // Contrast: Cuisine from Here and Elsewhere, by Jules Niang (Menu Menu Collection, published by Éditions de La Martinière – €7.90).
This article is excerpted from Gault&Millau magazine,issue no. 15. It is available at the Gault&Millau online store.
