Maltacina, the audacity of an ultra-local gourmet restaurant in Matheysine
In the heart of the Matheysine region, chef Kévin Mangione has taken up a challenge few would have dared to attempt: to open a gourmet restaurant where none existed before. He has opened a special, committed restaurant, where the dishes tell the story of the mountains and the people who cultivate them.
Not sure if you've heard of the Matheysine, and with good reason: this mountainous plateau 30 km south of Grenoble is still little-known to tourists.yet this is where chef Kevin Mangione decided to settle, far from the popular ski resorts and high-end hotel establishments. In this stone village house, a vaulted hall, an open kitchen and a few tables facing the pass allow you to watch the precise ballet of the teams.
A restaurant rooted in its region
at La Maltacina, everything is produced within a 100 km radius as the crow flies. From vegetables to meats, herbs to wines, almost everything is produced locally, often organically, and always from producers chosen above all for the human contact. Even the dishes are made to order by a neighboring potter a hundred meters away. The menu, offered blind, is available in four (weekday lunchtimes, excluding vacations), six or eight courses, to choose from for the table.
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Everything changes according to the day, inspiration and supply. For example, the sweetness of a chickpea marshmallow, the crunch of a praline and oyster mushroom tartlet from Saint-Martin-d'Hères. The combinations are surprising, without ever confusing: zucchini and aniseed agastache, ceps and quince with a full-bodied squash skin juice that has nothing to envy its meaty holologues, or a goat's cheese sorbet with grated hazelnut. For dessert, old-fashioned apples and plums bring the evening to a fitting close.
This confidential address, opened in July 2024, embodies a committed, accessible and demanding vision of gastronomy: that of a chef who dares to have a strong identity, rooted, literally, in his territory.
- Where? 443, route du 45ᵉ Parallèle, 38119 Saint-Théoffrey
- Open Thursday to Monday, 12 h to 15 h and 19 h to 23 h. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
- Single menu (4 strokes €59, 6 strokes €75, 8 strokes €89)
- www.maltacina.com
