The chronicles of the Man in Yellow

2/14/17

Jacques said, "Let's eat! And even if he hadn't, Noémie Honiat and Quentin Bourdy's urban country bistro is part village inn, part fairground stall, part urban farandole.

Jacques a dit is the second address of Noémie Honiat and Quentin Bourdy, the little fiancés from the Rouergue region, who may be thirty centimetres apart in height, but they share the same essential values: love, sharing and generosity. Particularly in the family kitchen (Quentin's), totally preserved and embellished by the young chef at the Hôtel de l'Univers , the mother house, and embellished by Noémie's pastries, as well as now in this delightful little house they've fitted out stone by stone.

For their second business, the newlyweds (it was the next step) benefited from the Gault&Millau Endowment, which helps young entrepreneurs. And finally, it's Gault&Millau and the whole world who benefit from a beautiful new address in the heart of the little town. At the start of a pedestrian street, a cheerful sign announces the revitalized countryside, the resolutely smiling terroir.

In this rough and ready setting, full of communicative warmth, it's the young mother (yes, everything's moving so fast) who takes the helm, the cash register, the good bit.

With its rough stonework, vaulted ceiling, full wooden stools at the counter and a thick tray for plates, you're already eager to get in on the action. In the dining room, everyone's in a frenzy. You only have to read the menu to understand why. 14 scoops and you're in for a treat with Noémie's cuisine and a fiery atmosphere. Parisians don't understand, they think it's the price of the parking ticket and look on the slate for the real price of the meal.

As I was hesitating and hadn't taken a starter, Noémie let me try two of the day's cocottes. In Villefranche-de-Rouergue, we're not in the middle of the ocean, but frankly, the brandade de cabillaud was good stuff: well seasoned, with just the right amount of garlic, an impeccable shellfish sauce, full of taste and precision.

No more beef, but instead a sauté of veal. Perfume, taste, a totally addictive bouillon sauce, in which I had to dip a whole baguette, like a glutton. The bowl had to be removed before I ended up with my head in it.

I accompany the meal with a wine that costs nothing by the glass, but does a lot of good: a regional wine well sorted by Quentin and Noémie, who favor Aveyron production with this IGP vin de pays de l'Aveyron. We couldn't leave the stage without one of the chef's creations: the apple tart is fine and delicious, with a homemade caramel. The place is packed every lunchtime, from Tuesday to Saturday, and can be booked for a festive meal in the evening.

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