Chefs go grocery shopping

• Alan Geaam, Le Doukane, Paris

In addition to his triply toqué restaurant on rue Lauriston in the 16th arrondissement, Alan Geaam has made this stretch of rue Saint-Martin his stronghold, a literal crossroads, where he has set up a bistro (Qasti), a shawarma restaurant (Qasti Shawarma&Grill), a Lebanese galette counter (Sâj) and... a grocery store (Le Doukane). A true boutique which, like his other establishments, is an embassy of Lebanese cuisine.

Gault&Millau: Why a grocery store?

Alan Geaam: I'm the son of a grocer! My father had a grocery store in Liberia (where I was born) and, when we returned to Lebanon, a grocery store in Tripoli. When I was 10 years old, he took me there and taught me how to count, how to welcome customers and how to choose the best products. During the Covid, when everything was closed, I transformed my bistro into a pop-up grocery store, with typical Lebanese products not easily found. People loved it.

Another reason: my friend, Anthony Rayahel, a foodie-blogger-youtuber-instagrammer who tours Lebanon, took me with him to see many farms and producers. I said "Let's go!"And we teamed up on this project.

Last but not least, I'm living my French dream, and I feel it's my duty to bring my culture to all my projects. I have a story to tell.

G&M: What's in it for you?

A. G.: 90% of the products are imported directly from Lebanon; only the cheeses and fresh produce are made in France. Spices, zaatar, condiments, sesame cream (essential for making hummus), pomegranate molasses, Mulberry syrup and a wide selection of Lebanese wines, unknown in France.

Le Doukane.

212, rue Saint-Martin, 75003 Paris.

www.alan geaam.fr

• François Gagnaire, restaurant Anicia, Paris

In 2014, François Gagnaire left his restaurant in Le Puy-en-Velais and, after a brief stint at Hôtel du Collectionneur, opened Anicia (2 toques) in Paris's 6th arrondissement. A living space open all day long (with afternoon snacks), Anicia defends and represents the Haute-Loire region in all its aspects. The star product is the lentil (Anicia is the name of the AOP variety from Le Puy), available in all its forms.

Gault&Millau: Why a grocery store?

François Gagnaire: Because everything here speaks of and comes from the region. The furniture, made by craftsmen, the books, the paintings, the photos, even the videos on screen showing landscapes of the Velay. When we arrived here, we had to start from scratch, adapting while keeping our convictions. And we've diversified our offer, proposing something perhaps more modest than the previous restaurant, but which corresponds in every way to our vision. And because if you're looking for organic PDO green lentils, we're one of the few places in Paris where you can find them!

G&M: What's on offer?

F. G. Lentils, of course, but also jams, artisanal beers, infusions with Mézenc hay (a blend of 40 flowers with medicinal properties) or verbena-citronella, a dozen liqueurs (verbena, plum, gentian...) and a rarity made only in Velais: artisous cheese, microscopic spiders that grow on the rind and help ripen the cheese.

Anicia.

97, rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris.

www.anicia-paris.com

• Pierre Rigothier, Lune restaurant, Vayres

In his restaurant, the grocery corner is limited to one shelf. But there's plenty to prolong the memory of the experience, with products cooked by the chef and others not easily found in this region on the outskirts of Bordeaux.

Gault&Millau: Why a grocery store?

Pierre Rigothier: Before the confinement, it was already something my wife and I wanted to do. Circumstances accelerated the process. We started making preserves, granola, pastries... We also wanted to help our producer friends who had lost most of their customers. There are only two of us in the kitchen, so it doesn't have to be a priesthood either. For example, if I make a Kintoa pork terrine with truffles, I put some of it on sale. We calculate the selling price so as not to lose money. It's really additional sales, a slight increase in turnover, like when you go to a museum and leave with a trinket!

G&M: What's on offer?

P. R.: Jars of soup, trout or bonito confit in olive oil, granola, charcuterie from Pierre Oteiza, olive oil from Xavier Alazard, products from Le Monde de la Truffe.

Lune.

56, avenue de Libourne, 33870 Vayres.

restaurantlune.com

• Joseph Viola, Daniel & Denise grocery stores, Lyon

For Joseph Viola, grocery shopping is a business that began before Covid, with the opening of his first counter-boutique in Villeurbanne in 2017. Like many of his colleagues, during the crisis he transformed his restaurants into takeaways, and in 2021 he will open a second boutique opposite his historic bouchon on rue de Créqui in Lyon. Alongside the takeaway, a range of products under his own name will be available outside the Lyon region via an eshop, a number of delicatessens and airport boutiques.

Gault&Millau: Why a grocery store?

Joseph Viola: Consumption patterns are changing. We were already sensing this in 2017 with the first grocery store. You can't just be a restaurateur any more, you have to diversify your panel, become a bistrotier, grocer, etc. My daughter Julia is in charge of developing the brand. I draw up the recipes, do all the testing and, since we work in sterilization, I hire a maker who does all the recipes and cooking to European standards so that we can ship them abroad. There's no question of working on a white-label basis, putting the logo on just any product; it's really us who create it. Putting our canned goods in airports means taking our brand on the road. I don't know how many people will walk past and ask, "Where's Daniel and Denise?"Because our number one job is to be a restaurateur. I make money by putting them there, but I also gain visibility.

G&M: What can you find there?

J. V.: In the store, the famous pâtés en croûte (he makes 3 tons a year!), jars of terrines, gras double, quenelles and other Lyonnais specialties, and above all a range of juices, bouillons and sauce bases that are extremely useful for cooking at home.

Daniel & Denise.

156, rue de Créqui, 69003 Lyon.

danieletdenise.fr