The 5 Favorite Desserts of the Pastry Chef at Paul Bocuse Restaurant
As pastry chef at Restaurant Paul Bocuse, Benoît Charvet carries on Monsieur Paul’s legacy while adding his own personal touch. He looks back on five desserts that tell the story of his career.
At Restaurant Paul Bocuse (4 toques) in Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, pastry-making is a living art that never loses sight of its history. Since taking the helm of the pastry kitchen in 2019, Benoît Charvet has kept the restaurant’s great classics alive while adapting them to today’s expectations. His approach is guided by balance rather than radical change. “We rework traditional desserts while preserving their indulgent qualities, ” he explains.
Lightening textures, reimagining presentations, and reducing sugar without betraying the spirit of the recipes: this is a way to carry on a legacy that belongs as much to the House of Bocuse as it does to the collective memory of food lovers. Among the desserts that have shaped his career, some evoke his childhood, while others are part of Lyon’s identity. Here are five that all evoke emotion and memories.
The Must-Try: Monsieur Paul’s Clafoutis
It’s impossible to discuss the restaurant’s iconic desserts without mentioning Monsieur Paul’s clafoutis. It was one of Paul Bocuse’s favorite desserts, which he loved to enjoy during the summer fruit season, particularly with cherries or apricots. The recipe has remained virtually unchanged, but its presentation has evolved. “We’ve given it a slightly more modern twist, while keeping it just as indulgent, ” notes Benoît Charvet. Today, the dessert is accompanied by a pan-seared fruit medley served on the side. A few fresh herbs, such as mint chopped at the last minute, add a touch of freshness and lightness. A timeless classic that continues to be enjoyed across generations.
A Childhood Memory: Grandma Alice’s Rice Pudding
If he had to choose just one dessert tied to his personal history, it would probably be this one. “It’s the recipe I used to eat at my grandparents’ house. It’s my ‘Madeleine de Proust, ’” recalls Benoît Charvet. The recipe remains faithful to his grandmother Alice’s family recipe. Benoît Charvet simply makes a few technical adjustments, notably adding mascarpone at the end of cooking or after it has cooled to achieve a creamier, more velvety texture. A milk jam rounds out the dish and enhances the dessert’s comforting quality. A dish that appears simple on the surface, yet is deeply rooted in his history.
The Most Popular Dessert: the Paris-Brest
“It’s my favorite dessert,” the pastry chef confides. And clearly, it’s the customers’ favorite, too. Featured on the famous dessert cart, the Paris-Brest is among the restaurant’s most requested creations. “People don’t want us to take it off the menu, ” he jokes. The chef has preserved all its classic elements: choux pastry, praline, indulgence, and generous portions. But he’s sought to lighten the overall dish. “We’ve used less butter in the cream and created several emulsions to lighten it.” It’s a subtle evolution that preserves the dessert’s identity while bringing it up to date. “People often gravitate toward what they know so they won’t be disappointed.” With the Paris-Brest, they know they won’t be.
A Local Pride: The Praline Tart
In Lyon, certain desserts are practically part of the cultural heritage. The praline tart is one of them. “It’s in the region’s DNA. The people of Lyon are very proud of it! ” For Benoît Charvet, it therefore has a rightful place on the dessert cart at the Abbaye de Collonges. Here again, the recipe has been reworked to be lighter. Less sweet than traditional versions, it now combines praline, vanilla, and almond milk. “This naturally enhances the flavor of the praline, which is, above all, a roasted almond coated in sugar.” An iconic dessert that foreign visitors request almost as often as Lyon’s regulars.
The Best of Both Worlds: Chocolate Flan/Cheesecake
A more recent creation, this dessert exemplifies Benoît Charvet’s desire to bring together different pastry traditions. The base combines two types of dough: puff pastry around the edges and a sweet chocolate dough on the bottom. Next comes a layer of lemon-flavored cream cheese, topped with a chocolate flan mixture and a chocolate glaze. The idea was born from a reflection on balance. “Chocolate can quickly become cloying, especially when it’s very creamy. To add more freshness, we chose to pair it with a cheesecake-inspired filling,” he reveals.
“We have a large international clientele, particularly from the U.S. It was a way to blend their tastes with ours.” The result: a decadent, refreshing dessert that’s particularly popular with customers.
