The new patisserie: committed & responsible
Shifting the boundaries of responsible, committed consumption has become a priority, even in pastry-making. More and more chefs are becoming involved, convinced, for example, of the need to respect the seasons, going so far as to pay particular attention to the production methods of the farmers they work with. When it comes to creation, they are also attentive to zero waste. Plastic is also in their sights, with recycled and recyclable cardboard containers becoming a must, and returnable glass jars making a comeback. Focus on 5 enlightened chefs.
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Claire Heitzler & Producers, Levallois-Perret
"Containment and new consumer trends gave me the idea for this concept, which involves working alongside producers, primarily on a click-and-collect basis, to produce just the right quantities."Claire Heitzler works just-in-time with the best ingredients, chosen for their quality and scrupulously attentive to the producer's approach. Preparations are made several times a day according to orders. However, a very limited number of pastries are available in the store. The packaging - zero plastic, returnable glass, recycled and recyclable wood or cardboard - and deliveries are eco-friendly. Order Racine, the signature cake with chocolate and Madagascan vanilla, and Gâteau de l'Amitié with French yuzu, a lovely story of mutual aid and fairness.
9 rue du Parc 92300 Levallois-Perret (Click & Collect)
www.pati sserie-claire.com
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Des Gâteaux et du Pain, Claire Damon, Paris
"Commitment only makes sense if it's global.What would a free-range strawberry tart be with European battery eggs and additive-laden flour?"Growing methods and traceability are at the heart of Claire Damon's patisserie, including the packaging (100% cotton cord and paper from eco-managed forests). The eggs are free-range and organic from Brittany. As patron of the Potager du roi in Versailles, she is committed to rehabilitating old varieties of fruit trees. We go there in winter for the sweet chestnut PDO from Ardèche and almonds from Provence, and in spring for the grapefruit rosa.
63 bd Pasteur, 75015 Paris
www.desg ateauxetdupain.com
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Sucré Cœur, Paris
Marie Dieudonné is committed to working with fresh French fruit, and possibly European if organic. So no coconut, passion fruit or pineapple, to avoid increasing the carbon footprint as much as possible. Plastic is not welcome, and cake bags and boxes are made of paper. His pastries are all gluten-free, sometimes lactose-free, and egg products are banned from the ingredients. We go for Jean, an organic French corn cake with popcorn and salted butter caramel, and for Tarte Julienne, a 100% plant-based lemon tart.
12 rue Manuel 75009 Paris
www.sucr e-coeur.com
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Étienne Culot, Grenoble
The key for Étienne Culot is to work in harmony with nature, hand-in-hand with his greengrocer, creamer and grocer. "They are all experts in their field and source the very best products. The approach is that of a gourmet restaurant, with ingredients chosen for their quality and processed without additives or colorants. The composition and name of the producer appear in front of each cake as it arrives. New: foldable, washable cake boxes to take back to the boutique for your next purchase. Try the rhubarb - olive oil tart and the 100% vanilla tart made with New Caledonian vanilla.
6-8 place Championnet 38000 Grenoble
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Jean-François Foucher, Cherbourg-en-Cotentin
Jean-François Foucher owns his own orchard in Cherbourg, 7,000m2 of apples, pears and figs. "We're not self-sufficient despite the orchard, so working with local artisans less than 20km away is my credo."The fruit is peeled by hand, and recipes are redesigned to incorporate fresh milk, which is tastier and fatter. Chocolate bonbons are sold in wooden boxes. You can also try his market pastries: the must-try Saint-Honoré with a taste of the farm and the strawberry-green asparagus cake from the garden.
12 rue au Fourdray 50100 Cherbourg-en-Cotentin
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