Please wait

Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

GaultMillau © 2025 All rights reserved

What if we fell into... buns?

What if we fell into... buns?

Anne Debbasch | 5/4/22, 10:00 AM

More rustic than a cake, but more delicious than bread, brioches are one of those bakery specialties that quickly turn our heads.

"Bri" for "brier", i.e. to knead the dough, and "oche" for "hocher", i.e. to stir it up, thus the history of brioches throughout France. They first appeared in the Middle Ages, but it was in 16th-century Normandy that they originated, enriched with milk, eggs and fresh butter from the region. Their secret? A leavened dough, flaky or not, rich in egg yolks and butter, whose flavors and tastes are revealed by the fermentation time allowed by the baker or pastry chef. Let's follow in the footsteps of those plump, golden balls of dough just out of the oven.

  • Maison Lenôtre, Paris

627242714d7427455428e4a2

The brioche de Menton is a brioche dough made by the touriers of the famous Maison Lenôtre, topped with candied citrus fruits - citron, grapefruit, orange and Menton lemon. "Its special feature is a mixture of almond powder and powdered sugar, mixed with egg whites to form a crust on top and contrast the texture with the softness of the brioche."We're crazy about the family version, which weighs almost 500 g and can be shared, and we're inspired by the advice of Guy Krenzer, Creative Director and Executive Chef at Maison Lenôtre, to imagine it as a pain perdu served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in winter, or a lemon sorbet when the sun comes out, if you have any left...

44, rue d'Auteuil, 75016 Paris.

www.leno tre.com

  • Kevin Lacote, in Paris

627242878186486c9017b3e1

For a change from airy brioches, Kevin Lacote has come up with a family-size puff pastry brioche, which he sells mainly at weekends in his boutique-tea room. "It's a brioche turned with butter to exacerbate the taste of fresh butter that we love so much, and which gives it that lingering texture in the mouth."It's best to drop by in the morning to enjoy them, as the flaky brioches, covered with a few grains of sugar and golden brown to perfection, quickly disappear from the shop windows.

78, avenue de Villiers, 75017 Paris.

www.klpa tisserie.com

  • Bo&Mie, Paris

6272429a96e2ef299341f31a

Plain on weekdays and chocolate chip on weekends, Bo&Mie's brioches are meant to be gourmet. They come in several juxtaposed balls, sprinkled with a few grains of chouquette-style sugar (for the plain version) or chocolate chips (for the weekend version). We like the firm, melt-in-the-mouth crumb of the plain brioche and its presentation, which allows you to break up the... brioche.

91, rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris.

www.boet mie.com

  • Nicolas Paciello, in Paris

627242aaad54cc02d41fbf50

@Pascal Lattes

Patissier chocolate brioches! From a distance, they could be mistaken for the house's signature choux pastries, but they're really brioches. Round, golden, moist, rich in chocolate chips and, above all, covered with a chocolate ganache and cocoa crumble. "I tried to multiply the textures in this brioche: soft, crunchy, crunchy and melting. The crumble added to the ganache softens the intensity of the Venezuelan chocolate used."We love this individual brioche, which can be eaten from morning to night.

CinqSens. 114, rue Saint Charles, 75015 Paris.

www.cinq sensparis.com

  • Alex Croquet, Lille

627242baff82b13b0738bfda

It's not for nothing that people from the North of France call themselves "sugar faces". To understand why, just taste Alex Croquet's sugar brioche. "What we love here are those places in the dough where the big lumps of sugar, much bigger than those in chouquettes, have come to retain the water from the milk and eggs, creating sweet, as if undercooked, ultra-moist bites. This half-melted sugar lends a certain freshness to the mouth and a desire to return."We love the pronounced taste of this brioche, obtained thanks to a 48-hour long fermentation, and the note of fresh butter that prolongs this taste, punctuated by sweet sparks that are moist to the core and crunchy around the edges.

66, rue Esquermoise, 59000 Lille.

www.alex croquet.fr

  • Frédéric Cassel, Fontainebleau

627242ca8186486c9017b3ec

A Picardy speciality, the gâteau battu from Relais Desserts pastry chef Frédéric Cassel is a must-try, and one that has Pierre Hermé melting with pleasure. "This cake is part of every holiday in our region. It's a mix of baba in its kneading and brioche in its richness in egg yolks and butter. I like to cut it in half, then in slices, and eat it all day long, plain or with a good wild strawberry jam."It's impossible to resist this airy, low-sugar crumb that looks like a chef's hat. If you resist temptation, it keeps very well for three or four days.

71-73, rue Grande, 77300 Fontainebleau.

www.fred eric-cassel.com

  • Philippe Bernachon, Lyon

627242dbb4f6c3438164b990

For a chocolatier, chocolate rhymes with brioche! And the Bernachon family is no exception to the rule. Here, no pains au chocolat, but individual brioches packed with 50g (no less!) of homemade chocolate chips. "We make a traditional brioche dough with lots of butter, but before folding it, we add a dollop of homemade chocolate that melts when baked. These are very soft brioches with a Bernachon taste!"Tasting them while they're still warm means you can enjoy all the deliciousness of the melted chocolate and fill your mouth. They're also available in a plain version and, as Lyon obliges, with pink pralines.

42, cours Franklin-Roosevelt, 69006 Lyon.

www.bern achon.com

These news might interest you

Orleans vinegar Craftsmen & Know-How

Orleans vinegar

Created on the banks of the Loire, Orléans vinegar has long been known throughout France and on the tables of kings. In the 18th century, during its golden age, the city was home to several hundred artisan vinegar makers. Today, Maison Martin-Pouret is the only company to have maintained this tradition since 1797.
Seaweed bliss Craftsmen & Know-How

Seaweed bliss

Jean-Marie and Valérie Pédron gather, preserve and process seaweed from the Guérande peninsula, delivering it to France's top chefs. The couple also aim to democratize the use of this coastal treasure, which is rarely used in cooking.
Jade Genin transforms Easter eggs into works of art Craftsmen & Know-How

Jade Genin transforms Easter eggs into works of art

For Easter, Jade Genin transforms chocolate into an exceptional sculpture. Blooma, her latest creation, is as fascinating to contemplate as it is to taste.
Craftsmen & Know-How

Ebony treasure from The Peninsula Paris For Easter, Anne Coruble has created a trompe-l'oeil that's truer than life, with its curves of black garlic and subtle caramelized taste. Beneath a shell of 40% Madagascar milk chocolate, eight cloves enclose a candied black garlic ganache and hazelnut praline. A precious creation that opens without being broken, so hesitant is it to open. Price: 95 euros Pre-order from March 29 and on sale from April 12. The turtle candy box from Manufacture Ducasse Set a course for the Mediterranean with this turtle-shaped bonbonnière made entirely of chocolate, from base to lid. inside are "turtle nuggets" combining vanilla marshmallow and hazelnut praline, as well as coconut praline bells. Price: 67 euros À la mère de famille hens À la mère de famille carries on the tradition with its chocolate hens, available in several sizes and named after the owners and their families who have marked the history of the house (Hélène, Julia, Adélaïde, Jane and Claude). Two recipes: a dark chocolate with woody, earthy notes, and a milk chocolate with milk and caramel accents. inside, an assortment of butterflied praline eggs, praline fritures and dry fritures. Price: 19 to 122 euros depending on format available from March 17, 2025 The Cheval Blanc Paris Easter bell Maxime Frédéric imagines a bell in motion, in homage to Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. Its dark chocolate base conceals a tablet filled with vanilla caramel and crispy hazelnut praline. The milk chocolate belfries enclose a praline tablet, while the yoke houses chocolate-coated caramelized hazelnuts. The dark chocolate bell is transformed into a mendiant, studded with dried and candied fruit. Price: 135 euros Edwart Chocolatier Three mischievous animals are part of Edwart's Easter collection: Yara, the lively, inquisitive bird, Eloa, the dreamy frog, and Taïno, the mischievous, playful monkey. All made from Grands Crus cocoa, for a playful blend of indulgence and character. Credit: Edwart Spring takes flight at Waldorf Astoria Versailles - Trianon Palace Eddie Benghanem has created a poetic tribute to spring: a little bird perched on a tree trunk with delicate sugar flowers. inside, an alliance of dark chocolate, chocolate almond cake, dark ganache and crunchy praline. Price: 45 euros Capon Head for Chaponie, where jungle animals come to life in chocolate. Léonard the leopard in milk chocolate, Suzy the zebra in white chocolate, Zoé the bonobo in milk chocolate, Bob the bear in dark chocolate. All deliciously garnished with fried food. Price: 19 euros each Cédric Grolet's trompe-l'œil chocolates Almond, hazelnut, peanut and pecan: five dried fruits sublimated in trompe-l'œil. Beneath a crunchy chocolate shell, a praline made from the fruit in question, with a hint of fleur de sel. Available in S and M sizes. Size S: 30 euros Size M: 50 euros from March 26, pre-order on our website Claire Heitzler's Bibis Chef Claire Heitzler has created three chocolate bears, tenderly nicknamed Les Bibis. Milk, dark or white, each contains an assortment of three-chocolate and praline chips. Cyril Lignac Farm animals take center stage in this collection by Cyril Lignac: hens, pigs and sheep in crunchy chocolate, topped with praline eggs and mini chocolate bears. Available in dark, milk or dulcey versions. Available from March 27 Maison Boissier lace cats This year, Maison Boissier pays tribute to felines with a box of two cats in dark and milk chocolate, finely sculpted and filled with sweet treats. Price: 125 euros Cagnes Sheep, bunny and hen take shape in dark or milk chocolate. Under their shells, a heart of chocolate chips and crunchy marbles. starting at 20 euros Arnaud Larher MOF Arnaud Larher unveils a collection of four whimsical creatures, all topped with fritures. Kim the parrot in white chocolate and Ruby, René the elephant in caramel chocolate, Émilie the gorilla in intense dark chocolate, and Élio the lion in white chocolate and caramel. Prices: from 35 to 64 euros from March 20
Exceptional eggs from chefs and artisans for Easter 2025 Craftsmen & Know-How

Exceptional eggs from chefs and artisans for Easter 2025

Chefs and artisans reinvent the Easter egg with creations as surprising as they are refined. Unexpected shapes and daring flavors, discover our selection.
Flan Craftsmen & Know-How

Flan

A baker's dessert par excellence, the flan has returned to center stage in recent years, and social networks have made it a veritable gourmet star. Pastry chefs have seized upon it, bringing their know-how and high technical standards to the table.

Food products, kitchen equipment, tableware, service solutions...

See the full list of partners who place their trust in Gault&Millau

All our partners
Become a Partner
LEARN MORE