David Lanher: "I've never had a chef leave me".

11/30/16

Racines, Racines 2, Racines New York, Caffè Stern, Panache, Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Noglu, Vivant Cave, Vivant Table, Paradis, La Crèmerie. Today, David Lanher is eager to extend his list of restaurants in Paris and the United States. Gault&Millau Entrepreneur of the Year, he describes himself as a sentimental businessman. Interview by Béatrix Grégoire

Gault&Millau: Your restaurants seem to follow the same concept...

David Lanher: "Yes, it's about eating well at a fair price. I'm more into real market cuisine in a bistro setting, with extensive sourcing of the finest products, often supplied by small producers. I launched the idea with Racines 10 years ago. We were pioneers back then. Today, many restaurateurs are following in our footsteps. That's great, as long as you don't fall into the trap of product for product's sake. Otherwise, a meal can become very boring. You must never forget to cook.

G& M: You always seem to be looking for the next bargain. A little bulimic perhaps?

"Ihave very little turnover, I like continuity".

David Lanher, Entrepreneur of the Year

D. L.: What I really enjoy is building teams. I start by choosing people, and then I look for a location. I opened Le Bon Saint Pourçain in Saint-Germain-des-Prés because of Dominique (Léger, editor's note), who had been working in the dining room at Café de Flore for 25 years before I hired him. He fills me with joy. And above all, now there are chefs who want to work for us. It's a form of trust that pleases me. I have very little staff turnover, and no chef has ever left me. That's good, because I like continuity and building things up. At heart, I'm a sentimentalist.

G& M: Do you tour your establishments every day?

D. L.: Yes, I do. I always follow the same route on my scooter. I like to take the temperature of the place. Sometimes I only stay for three minutes, when everything's going well. I don't bother them. And if the teams don't see me coming, they get worried and text me.

G& M: Do your restaurants use the same suppliers?

David Lanher in one of his restaurants, Le Bon Saint Pourçain (Paris 6)

D. L.: Oh no, each one has its own menu and its own producers. That's our strength. The worst thing is to find the same places, dishes or wines everywhere. We've been much more demanding, more original.

G& M: What other restaurateurs inspire you?

D. L.: Without a doubt Bertrand Auboyneau, of Bistrot Paul Bert. He's the greatest Parisian restaurateur. He was one of the first to work with good produce and natural wines. He's my virtual dad. And Alain Ducasse. As an entrepreneur, he understood everything before anyone else. He's an absolute role model.

G& M: Do you have a project in the pipeline?

D. L.: I've taken over a brasserie, to be called Racines des prés, on rue de Gribeauval in the 7th arrondissement, next to rue du Bac in March. And I'll be taking over a restaurant on rue Bréguet, in a hotel, Maison Bréguet, in the 11th arrondissement. Opening April-May. At 45, you want to keep going.

I'd like to open something in Los Angeles, for example. And why not go into the hotel business, but stay true to my concept of sleeping well at a fair price?

Interview by Béatrice Grégoire.