In Christophe Hay's citrus greenhouse at Fleur de Loire
At the Fleur de Loire restaurant in Blois, Christophe Hay cultivates some forty varieties of citrus fruit in his greenhouse, a veritable Loire orangery. From caviar lemons to yuzu, they infuse all his cooking and become the guiding light of his universe.
Citrus fruits on the banks of the Loire: at first glance, the idea seems far-fetched. And yet, in Blois, Christophe Hay has made these fruits of the sun a pillar of his culinary identity. In the luminous setting of Fleur de Loire (4 toques), he cultivates some forty varieties of citrus fruit, which feed the restaurant's creativity throughout the year. "The very first citrus tree I was offered," he recalls, "was a 4 Seasons lemon tree, in 2016. Since then, I've fallen in love with these trees."
From that first lemon tree, a gift from his interior decorator friend Caroline Tissier, a passion turned into a collection. Through his travels and encounters, the chef has brought back treasures from Asia, South America and the Mediterranean basin: Costa Rican red lime, citron maxima, caviar lemon, naruto orange, Japanese yuzu and Buddha's hand. These are all nuances of acidity, bitterness and fragrance that he tames, season after season.
A "sun bowl" in Blois
His greenhouse, custom-designed by Les Serres d'Antan, stands at the rear of the main building, in a small "sun bowl" bordered by ancient walls. The sun shines in all day long, creating a microclimate ideal for these Mediterranean guests.
Inspired by the orangeries of the 1930s, the iron and glass structure is home to potted citrus fruits, which are brought out in fine weather before being brought in when frost approaches.this is my secret garden," confides the chef. They're my babies. I prune them, water them, look after them. You have to be attentive: a bit like with humans, there are signs of fatigue, stress, periods when the sap withdraws."
© Mathilde Bourge
Some Japanese varieties, such as yuzu, have even found their way into the ground: "Japan is on the same line as France, and temperatures are comparable. These trees hold up well here, on the banks of the Loire."
From greenhouse to plate
Citrus fruits are omnipresent in the kitchens of Fleur de Loire. From amuse-bouche to dessert, they leave their mark on the palate, bringing the freshness, tension and light that are the hallmark of the chef's cuisine.
A lemon-salt-ginger condiment accompanies wagyu beef; an infusion of citrus leaves perfumes a boutique dessert; pomelo, peeled raw and heated just enough to separate the cells, offers an unexpected crunch. "We use everything: the juice, the zest, the ziste. The citron, with its thick skin, is used on a strawberry dessert to bring creaminess and fragrance."
Christophe Hay likes to explore nuances: acid, bitter, sweet and salty. "There are as many sensations and fragrances as there are citrus fruits. No twoare alike. One of his favorites is bizzarria, a hybrid fruit between lemon and orange, which he flames with Cointreau in a sauce to accompany a pike soufflé crepe. "There's that bitter orange aspect to it, while retaining the acidity: it's fascinating to work with."
fleur de Loire
A living imprint
at Fleur de Loire, the citrus greenhouse joins the truffle farm, the vegetable garden and the wagyu beef farm, creating an almost autonomous ecosystem. Here, teams pick the day's fruit, observe the leaves and smell the fragrance of the flowers. "It's a great way to get out of the kitchen, to understand how things grow, to be in direct contact with nature," enthuses the chef, who comes from a five-generation farming family.
For him, growing citrus fruit is a way of reconnecting with the earth, of rooting creation in the living. "These trees are a joy to have. They bring fragrance, freshness, but also a form of peace."
