Live cooking, up-to-the-minute precision: the Accents experience reinvented
Mathilde Bourge | 4/19/25, 12:01 PM
The three-star restaurant Accents Table Bourse has been given a facelift. Beyond the aesthetics, this change also improves the customer experience.
in Paris, the Accents Table Bourse restaurant (3 toques) reopens its doors after several months of renovation. More than just a makeover, it's a transformation designed to break down the barriers between the dining room and the kitchen, and re-establish a direct, living link between chefs and their guests.
An open-plan dining room conducive to exchange
In a décor inspired by the mineral world, Accents reveals a new face that is both raw and refined. The soft green of clay, the deep hues of rock, the sandy tones and the warmth of wood create a soothing, organic ambience. A setting designed to reconnect diners with what's essential: taste, gesture, the moment.
The architectural project, entrusted to the Franco-Japanese duo Maïa Laville and Mamoru Kondo, stands out for its fluidity and simplicity. Above all, it breaks down the walls - both symbolic and real - between the dining room and the kitchen.
At the center of the room is a large, unfinished concrete counter, the centerpiece of the design. A concrete response to a long-held desire of chefs to make visible what was hidden, to bring the kitchen closer to the customer. Gone is the central island that cut the dining room in two, replaced by a partially open kitchen, directly connected to the counter.
Chef Romain Mahi, now installed behind the counter, finalizes the plates at the minute. alongside him, three or four members of the team work under the watchful - and often curious - eyes of the customers seated opposite them. A natural, unadorned setting that enhances the precision of gestures and the freshness of creations.
Smoother service, a livelier experience
" This new system changes everything ," confides Romain Mahi. " We can adapt our service in real time. If a customer goes off to smoke, we stop. If a fragile foam needs to go quickly, we send it immediately. And above all, we can see reactions live. "
The counter thus becomes a privileged point of contact, a space for exchange where words flow freely between chefs and guests. Customers, sometimes hesitant about the idea of a meal"at the counter", are quickly won over. And those in the dining room also benefit from optimized service, thanks to the new, more fluid and connected configuration.
An even more demanding cuisine
Over and above the relational aspect, this proximity also enables us to move upmarket with our dishes. The more technical, more sensitive dishes can now be served in ideal conditions. " We can afford bolder finishes, delicate textures and ephemeral elements ," explains the chef.
On the drinks front, the team is also pushing back the boundaries of food and wine pairing. Alongside head sommelier Léa Salomon, the restaurant is developing innovative pairings: natural wines, Japanese sakes, but also house-modified spirits - such as a lobster liqueur served with champagne, or a black garlic and olive creation.
A loyal and delighted clientele
70% of Accents' customers are regulars, and their welcome to this metamorphosis has been enthusiastic. Seduced by the new decor, reassured by the warmth of the service, many see in this change a real added value. " We explain things, and take the time to talk, especially with those opposite us," says Romain Mahi. " The link is more direct, more human. "
Since 2016, Accents Table Bourse has embodied a subtle dialogue between Japanese rigor and French creativity. Led by the duo of Romain Mahi and Ayumi Sugiyama - also a pastry chef and co-founder - the restaurant defends a precise, gourmet vision, full of contrasts.
To celebrate this milestone, a first book dedicated to Accents will soon be released, written by Chihiro Masui and illustrated by the photographs of Justin De Souza. Some one hundred creations will be immortalized.
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Auberge de la Grive, Aisne
Nicolas and Cécilia Gautier, whom we've been following for a long time (Nicolas also has the distinction of having twice been elected Jeune Talent, in 2010 when he worked at l'Ardoise, in Ognes, then three years later when he was at the helm of Château d'Esclimont), returned to the heart of Picardy in the summer of 2023. They sold their two other restaurants, Nature and Bistrot RG, in the North of France, to create, in a magnificent country house they fell in love with (and which they now occupy), the Bistrot RG.the two of them work in pairs, facing a dozen or so customers arranged in a U-shape around a central island where the couple are busy. The menus are imposed, of course, but that's the only slight complaint the Gautiers might have. Even if the atmosphere can sometimes take a little time to warm up (it's not always easy to get along with table-mates you haven't chosen), the dishes that follow one another soon cheer up even the sorriest of spirits. The 3 toques are already very close, for the very fine char from Voulpaix lightly confit, lovage and nasturtium, the soft-steamed monkfish (wonderful flesh) with beurre blanc and girolles from Saint-Gobain and the gourmet blonde from Caillouël roasted over the embers.
As you can see, Nicolas Gautier still loves working with local produce (and he talks about it with passion), and he doesn't neglect the desserts, which are very elaborate and personalized. The cellar is quite short, but very well focused.
Where? 5, rue du Logis, 02300 Trosly-Loire
See the Gault&Millau review ofAuberge de la Grive
www.aubergedelagrive.com